Unlike some ingredients that have a singular focus—like hyaluronic acid to hydrate, for example—peptides contain multitudes. Peptide skin-care products have the unique ability to target a host of skin concerns, from sagging to an impaired skin barrier, in part because there are so many different types of peptides.
For a bit of context, peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as messengers between skin cells. That allows them to orchestrate and carry out a variety of functions.
But that’s where their similarities end. “Different peptides do different jobs,” says Melanie Palm, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in San Diego, CA. Some instruct skin to churn out more collagen, others dictate signaling between cells, and certain peptides are in charge of delivering other compounds and nutrients to skin. Therefore they can offer unique results: Some help with firming and smoothing, while others boost hydration.
But just as peptides aren’t created equal, their benefits are similarly variable. “Saying ‘peptides work’ is like saying ‘vitamins work’,” says Dr. Palm. “Some have stronger data than others, and some have been studied much more extensively.” With that in mind, scroll ahead for a breakdown of the most common types and how they may benefit skin. One note: These don’t include enzyme-inhibiting peptides, which are designed to slow down processes that contribute to collagen breakdown or pigmentation. That’s because “these are less commonly used and discussed in topical skincare,” says Dr. Palm.
Among the most common peptides in skincare are signal peptides. “These essentially tell the skin to make more collagen and other structural proteins that help keep skin looking firm and resilient,” says Dr. Palm. For instance, Matrixyl 3000 stimulates collagen and elastin production, to reduce fine lines and improve skin elasticity.
They’re the baseline in Alastin’s Restorative Skin Complex, which Dr. Palm calls a staple in her routine, particularly following procedures like lasers and microneedling. “I’ve seen it perform well both in everyday skin-care routines and around cosmetic procedures,” she says. “Patients often notice improvements in skin texture and overall skin quality over time.”
But signal peptides aren’t simply a matter of collagen. Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid Activating Serum is infused with five unique signal peptides, which encourage skin to produce more ceramides, thus supporting a healthy skin barrier.
Alastin
Skinfix
Carrier peptides are essentially delivery vehicles for other ingredients. They “help deliver trace elements, such as copper, to the skin,” says Asmi Berry, D.O., a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles. Why that’s worthwhile: Copper is involved in wound healing and collagen production, says Dr. Berry.
These peptides sometimes appear in combination with others to deliver more well-rounded perks. Take The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1%. To deliver smooth, supple skin, “this combines several peptide technologies with copper peptides,” says Dr. Berry, who adds that it’s a good entry point for those who want to try peptides without making a more expensive commitment. InnBeauty’s serum, meanwhile, pairs copper peptides with vegan growth factors to firm skin over time.
The Ordinary
InnBeauty Project
If you’ve encountered skin-care products billed as “Botox in a bottle,” then you’ve already encountered these neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides. Like botulinum toxin, these “interact with the nervous system, telling facial muscles to relax to soften the appearance of wrinkles,” says Dr. Palm.
This isn’t to say that they’re comparable, however. “It’s important to recognize that as far as expectations go, these peptides do not deliver the same impact as injectable neuromodulators like Botox,” cautions Dr. Berry.
Berry likes the SkinCeuticals P-TIOX serum for its combination of neuropeptides and proven anti-aging ingredients. “It’s designed to target expression lines while also improving overall skin texture and radiance,” she says. And both she and Dr. Palm recommend Revision’s Revox Line Relaxer, which targets expression lines and visible signs of aging by pairing peptides with hydrators and antioxidants. That’s “generally how I prefer to approach skin aging,” says Dr. Palm. “Aging isn’t caused by one thing, so I tend to favor products that address several pathways at once.”
SkinCeuticals
Revision Skincare
Peptides love company—and for the most comprehensive benefits, it helps to use them in combination. On top of harnessing various types of peptides, “I also like seeing peptides paired with ingredients that support the skin in other ways,” says Dr. Palm. “Niacinamide, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, growth factors, and retinoids can all complement the work peptides are doing.”
With that in mind, Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP is an innovative formula that has a 30% peptide complex comprising 13 peptides, which work alongside mini proteins and hyaluronic acid to smooth and plump skin. Meanwhile, the Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum pairs 9% peptides with 3% growth factors; together, they target collagen production in order to reduce sagging skin.
Medik8
Allies of Skin
What is the most effective peptide for skin?
Both Dr. Palm and Dr. Berry agree that signal peptides have the strongest evidence to back up their results. “Ingredients such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) and palmitoyl tripeptide-based complexes have shown improvements in fine lines, skin texture, and collagen production in multiple studies,” says Dr. Berry. These tend to be involved in collagen signaling and extracellular matrix support (which is the tissue surrounding cells). “Those are the ones we have most clinical experience with when it comes to improving skin texture, fine lines, and overall skin quality,” says Dr. Palm.
However, keep in mind that peptides, as powerful as they might be, are not magic. “They’re supportive ingredients,” says Dr. Palm. “When they’re part of a well-designed skin-care regimen, they can absolutely contribute to healthier, more resilient skin.”
When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue’s vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity estheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry’s standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.
As it relates to peptide skincare, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: ingredients, peptide types, texture, finish, and the skin-care concerns they address. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you. Read more about our testing methodology here.
此内容由惯性聚合(RSS阅读器)自动聚合整理，仅供阅读参考。 原文来自 — 版权归原作者所有。