Tennis shoes–and I’m calling them “tennis shoes” despite the fact that no one actually wears them to play tennis–have undergone plenty of evolutions over the decades (case in point: there’s a pair from the 1910s going for a few hundred on Etsy right now).

In the 1930s, people wore them as “gym shoes”. In the 1970s, people wore them to skate bowls (though by then, they had chunky, rubbery souls and were more sneaker-esque, thanks to Vans). And, by the late ’80s and ’90s, canvas plimsolls–especially the white ones–had become a casual staple in line with the minimalist tastes of the era. See: Jennifer Aniston, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Julia Roberts, who were all fans of wearing white canvas shoes with their blue jeans or leggings.

Those who, like me, are decrepit enough to remember the indie sleaze years, will recall that white canvas plimsolls were a big thing back then, too. All of which is to say: it should come as no surprise that they’re back… again. What with trainer trends leaning increasingly slimline, combined with a feverish predilection for anything pared back, classic and ’90s-inspired, it was only a matter of time before the fashion set dipped a toe into these throwback shoes.

See also: Prada’s spring/summer 2026 collection, where white plimsolls reigned supreme, or the not dissimilar white derby that was spied on Celine’s spring/summer 2026 runway. British Vogue’s senior contributing fashion features editor Julia Hobbs even thinks such trainers “are about to topple the ballet runner,” citing both Prada’s Drill fabric sneakers and classic white vans.

“In an age of chunky dad sneakers, a classic white tennis shoe offers a welcome sense of ’90s-inspired simplicity,” mused British Vogue’s fashion writer Olivia Allen earlier this month. “The ankle support might be lacking, and the flashbacks to primary school PE lessons may be intense, but if they were good enough for Julia Roberts, they’re good enough for us.”