Joan Burstein, who transformed British retail in the 70s with her boutique store Browns, died Friday, at 100 years old. Her store championed young designers and international names, from John Galliano and Paul Smith to Giorgio Armani.

Mrs. B, as she was affectionately known in the fashion industry, founded Browns in 1970, with her husband, the late Sidney Burnstein. The couple were instrumental in the careers of several British designers. Burnstein famously purchased John Galliano’s entire graduate collection from Central Saint Martins in 1984 and displayed it in her shop windows. She also highlighted the works of Hussein Chalayan and Alber Elbaz.

“We are deeply saddened to share that our wonderful mother, Joan Burstein CBE, passed away peacefully,” her children Simon Burstein and Caroline Hammond said in a statement. “Earlier this year, she celebrated her 100th birthday in joyful style – dancing to a swing band and surrounded by those who loved her, which was entirely fitting for a life so vibrantly lived. She leaves behind an enormous legacy and will be profoundly missed by her two children, seven grandchildren, seven great-grandchildren, and the many people whose lives she touched.”

Mrs. B’s charismatic charm seduced many designers to launch at Browns. In 1981, she met Calvin Klein at Studio 54 and soon the designer was stocked at the South Molton Street store. More designers followed. From 1982 to 1986, Browns added Missoni, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Alaïa to its brand roster. In 1987, Browns became the first boutique to take on Rei Kawakubo’s Commes des Garçons.

In 1997, Burnstein opened Brown’s Focus, a store centered on new emerging designers, where Christopher Kane and Simone Rocha would eventually be stocked.

Mrs. B’s incredible contribution to British fashion was acknowledged in 2006, when she was awarded a CBE (Commander of the Order of the British Empire) for her services to the industry. “I'm simply thrilled about this – now I just have to worry about what to wear for the Queen!” she said at the time.

Paul Smith remembers Burstein for her unique eye. “Coupled with the commercial skill of her husband Sidney, they built a wonderful business in South Molton Street,” he says.“I was fortunate enough to work in the men’s design room at Browns for a short but formative period early in my career. Joan was a rarity in this industry with the balance of commerciality, vision and elegance. I’ll remember her for her extraordinary warmth.”

“It was a privilege to have known Mrs. B, she was supportive, surprising, elegant and pioneering,” says Simone Rocha. “When she picked up my label for Browns 15 years ago, of course it was a pinch me moment after the legacy of the Galliano graduate collection in the window. She was an unapologetic pioneer for the independents.”

Being a family-run business was important to the Bursteins. In 2007, their son Simon took over as managing director of Browns while his sister Caroline would be named creative director. In the same year, Browns went digital with an e-commerce website.

Eventually, Browns caught the eye of investors. In 2015, e-tailer Farfetch, which was valued at $1 billion at the time, bought the company and moved the store from South Molton Street to Brook Street in 2021. Holli Rogers, the former longtime fashion director of Net-a-Porter, joined as Browns CEO.

"They are buying our DNA – that is what makes it so exciting. I have known José [Neves, Farfetch founder] for a few years. I believe we need a bigger platform and this way we have money and a real goodwill,” Caroline told Vogue in 2015. She and her brother Simon joined the board of Browns when Farfetch took over.

After the pandemic, Browns’ popularity waned and the financial troubles at Farfetch, which was acquired by Coupang in 2023, further complicated things. The boutique is currently also under the control of the South Korean-founded company.

Mrs. B, who was larger than life, never stopped the music, not even as she turned 100 in February of this year, at her home in Ibiza. A major milestone for a major force in British Fashion.