Between the old-growth Redwoods, the rugged coastal paths, and the refreshingly unpretentious attitude, extolling the virtues of Sonoma County comes easily. Even before you’ve tasted the wine—which is rather good—this pocket of California already makes for a vacation worthy of praise. And despite the relentless comparison to its well-known neighbor just to the east (yes, Napa), Sonoma’s identity is distinctly its own.

The region stretches over 50 miles of Pacific coastline, and inland to forests, rivers, and valleys connected by sleepy country roads. There are 19 wine appellations, and the primary grapes planted are chardonnay and pinot noir (trailed closely by cabernet sauvignon). There’s a smattering of charming small towns and villages to explore, and an abundance of outdoor activities that make good use of Sonoma’s remarkable landscapes. That’s a long way of saying: if you haven’t been to Sonoma before, consider this an invitation to change that.

• Where to Stay
• Where to Eat
• Where to Taste Wine
• What to Do
• When to Visit
• What to Pack
• How to Get There

Sonoma County is home to over 30 cities and small towns (here’s a helpful list outlining them all). You can position yourself in one place and day-trip from there (Healdsburg is a popular option if you’re going that route). Or, for those aiming to spend more time by the ocean, consider splitting up your bases (Bodega Bay and Healdsburg are strong contenders, but don’t rule out Guerneville as a midpoint).

As with any wine country trip, tackling everything in one visit isn’t possible—there are over 400 wineries and an impressive number of restaurants and hotels.  However, if you’re in need of a few pointers on how to navigate Sonoma County for the first time, let the guide below serve as a jumping-off point.

Where to Stay

Blink and you might miss the turn-off for this boutique hotel in the Russian River Valley. Despite its inconspicuous facade, the 25-room property is something of an oasis. Stepping through the white wooden entrance, the smell of rosemary bushes, distant waterfall gurgles, and a canopy of trees swirl together for a greeting that’s rather effective at lowering blood pressure. Farmhouse Inn is situated near some of the AVA’s (American Viticultural Area) best wineries, but be sure to linger on property to experience a massage and moon milk bath at its heavenly wellness barn, an afternoon dip in the scenic pool, daily wine hour, and nightly s’mores around the fire pit—to name just a few highlights. And when you’re ready to venture off for dinner, let the house electric SUV take you there.

Address: 7871 River Rd, Forestville, CA 95436

It doesn’t get much more zen than the atmosphere at Dawn Ranch, set beside the Russian River and beneath towering Redwoods. This retreat in Guerneville offers a mix of accommodation styles, from cabins and cottages to canvas tents that come with king-size beds and private decks with fire pits. Pop into the spa for a wild lime scalp treatment, sip a cocktail made using botanicals harvested from the garden, and settle into a scallop tostada at The Lodge (the on-property restaurant). They’ve also got a solid roster of guest experiences that reflect the town’s bohemian flair, including forest bathing, origami workshops, and art walks.

Address: 16467 CA-116, Guerneville, CA 95446

On a rugged bluff along Highway 1, The Lodge at Bodega Bay is a Sonoma Coast hideaway where spotting whales while sipping a local pinot is just another day. Unlike Sonoma County accommodations planted in the heart of wine country, this 83-room hotel lets ocean views be the main character (best admired from the infinity-edge hot tub, naturally). Activities on property also echo the slow pace, including wine tasting, s’mores, sound baths, and nature walks. And once you’ve worked up an appetite after all that outdoor activity, enjoy a round of oysters at the Fireside Lounge, followed by the pan-seared black cod at Drakes (the hotel’s restaurant).

Address: 103 CA-1, Bodega Bay, CA 94923

It’s an overused phrase, but in this case it’s the truth: Montage Healdsburg is, indeed, nestled among rolling vineyards. The property offers a quintessential wine country stay, complete with wondrous views and an upscale experience, soup to nuts. The rooms are designed with floor-to-ceiling windows that face the property’s vineyards (which are looked after by acclaimed winemaker Jesse Katz), and some even have balconies with outdoor fire pits. The 11,500-square-foot spa is elevated 20 feet above the vines and has a zero-edge pool, with a menu of treatments including the sapphire oxylight facial and a harvest honey ginger body ritual. When it’s time for a meal, begin with a cocktail at Scout Field Bar beside the fireplace, and then head to Hazel Hill for the wine country mac and cheese.

Address: 100 Montage Way, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Climbing the lush driveway at The Madrona, it makes perfect sense that interior designer Jay Jeffers was drawn to this 1881-era home. The Victorian mansion and surrounding grounds are exquisite. And now, with an astonishing renovation, it’s clear The Madrona has entered a glamorous new era. For accommodation, guests have their choice between the mansion and carriage house, or a more secluded collection of bungalows scattered on the edge of the property that date back to 1861. Days are spent meandering the property, poking around the gardens, swimming in the glamorous pool, and freshening up before cocktail hour at Hannah’s Bar.

Address: 1001 Westside Rd, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Glen Ellen is a quiet hamlet in a wooded canyon between the Mayacamas Mountains and Sonoma Mountain. This 23-room hideaway leans into the peaceful ambience with zen-inspired design motifs, like ryokan suites with private karesansui rock gardens and deep granite soaking tubs. Mornings begin with a farm-to-table breakfast of savory quiches and fresh berries. The day’s agenda can include a dip in the pool, a quiet moment in the meditation alcove, and a glass of wine on the moon deck while listening to the Calabazas Creek in the distance.

Address: 13540 Arnold Dr, Glen Ellen, CA 95442

Where to Eat

Located in an early 20th-century bakery owned by Chef Dustin Valette’s great-grandfather, this Healdsburg institution is reliable for both a delicious meal and impeccable vibes. The best way to experience the cuisine is by choosing the Trust Me tasting menu, which is a minimum of five courses (request the day boat scallops en croute).

The coastal town of Jenner delivers that distinctive California feeling with its squiggly roads and sea breezes. If you’re in the area, grab a single-origin coffee at this charming cafe. Better yet, order a glass of wine and the clam chowder and find a spot on the outdoor deck overlooking the Russian River estuary just before it funnels into the Pacific Ocean.

Framed by century-old olive trees and set within a historic Victorian home, this two-Michelin-star restaurant in Sonoma is among the more notable openings in the region over the past decade. Enclos is helmed by executive chef Brian Limoges, who leads guests through a seasonal tasting menu that evokes his New England heritage, while celebrating Sonoma County’s bounty. Menu standouts include re-imaginations of Eastern seaboard classics, like the lobster roll, which he reinterprets with a spiny West Coast lobster.

Set within an 8,000-square-foot structure above nearly an acre of Geyserville vineyards, Chef Douglas Keane (a Top Chef Masters winner) delivers a progressive tasting menu for just 36 guests Thursday through Sunday. The evening begins with a toast in the Champagne lounge, followed by a visit to the kitchen table to watch the chefs in action, then a multi-course dinner overlooking the Alexander Valley. The evening concludes with a visit to Cyrus’s “mysterious” chocolate room, where a parting gift of house-made chocolate is presented as a parting gift.

This neighborhood restaurant, wine bar, and bottle shop is located in Sonoma and anchored by seasonal produce and the concept of California home cooking. In addition to their menu of bites like quesadilla de rajas and burrata with nettles, guests can also grab a bottle from Valley’s wine selection, focusing on organic, biodynamic, and regenerative practices.

Grab a bar seat at this locals-favorite Sebastopol hangout, serving a menu of produce-driven, shareable bites and pouring wines from lesser-known producers. The menu (which includes flavors like grilled maitake mushrooms with pistachio za’atar crisp) often changes in sync with what’s new at local farms, and the wine list hovers around 100 bottles starting in the $20 range.

Known for its wood-fire cooking, this Glen Ellen restaurant serves everything from roasted vegetables and glazed brick chicken, to strawberry gazpacho and (of course) wood-fired pizza. Their biodynamic produce is sourced from a nearby farm, and design details like exposed wooden beams give the space a cozy, rustic warmth.

Conclude a day of wine tasting with a Neapolitan-style pizza from this wood-fired Geyserville institution. It’s housed in a 1900s-era landmark building, and decorated with vintage film posters and antique tools.

What better way to spend an afternoon than at one of the picnic benches at El Molino Central, enjoying your order of beer-battered fish tacos? This Michelin-rated Sonoma spot has a robust menu of tamales, enchiladas, sopes, tostadas, and more. Take an order of the organic stone-ground corn tortillas to go in case you want to whip up a snack later on.

Where to Taste Wine

As a wine destination, Sonoma County is remarkably diverse. Cooler climate regions near the coast can produce elegant wines like those of Burgundy, while warmer inland regions are known for fuller-bodied cabernet sauvignons, zinfandel, and merlot. Split up your time between the various appellations to get a well-rounded snapshot, and if you gravitate toward a specific style, ask that winery where else you should go taste.

Martha Stoumen finally opened a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg, where fans of her natural winemaking can sip small production bottles in an earthy setting. Choose between a tasting flight or order by the glass, best enjoyed over a deck of cards.

This Bell Mountain winery off Chalk Hill Road has been organically farming its vineyard for over 20 years and is praised for its cabernet sauvignon. Spring for the vineyard tasting with co-founder Ames Morison to learn about their winemaking philosophy before a seated tasting of wines paired with local cheeses.

The family behind this Dry Creek Valley winery has been growing grapes in California for five generations. They focus on single-vineyard zinfandels and cabernet sauvignons (only available directly from the winery), but don’t sleep on the fiano if available to try—it’s an impeccable year-round white.

Jesse Katz was the first winemaker to be included in the Forbes 30 Under 30 list and studied under producers like Pétrus and Screaming Eagle before founding Aperture Cellars, a winery inspired by his travels with his father, photographer Andy Katz (whose images grace the walls). Try the new Collage tasting experience, which brings together the best vineyard lots from five Sonoma County appellations into two mind-boggling blends.

A tasting in Skipstone’s new 7,700-square-foot winery is an excellent introduction to this unique corner of Alexander Valley called Pocket Peak. The winery was built largely from estate-harvested stone and reclaimed wood milled on property, and is surrounded by vines resembling an amphitheater. In addition to its incredible lineup of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and viognier, ask to try their blanc de blancs brut, created in partnership with Champagne house, Diebolt-Vallois.

Located in the Russian River Valley’s eastern hills, this family-owned, CCOF-certified estate benefits from a unique microclimate that makes Bordeaux-style wines possible (a rarity for the AVA). Three tasting experiences are available (all dog-friendly) with walk-ins welcome.

Regarded as a champion of small-production wines, Ram’s Gate produces bottles from both its organic Carneros AVA estate as well as hidden-gem vineyards across Sonoma County. Last year, winemaker Joe Nielsen and executive chef Kim Cosway introduced The Equinox Experience, which is a five-course pairing that layers Latin and Mediterranean influences with California classics.

This biodynamic and organic winery takes a micro-terroir approach to production, assigning individual vineyard blocks to specific varieties based on soil type (primarily volcanic). The team is more than happy to translate this to layman’s terms, all while pouring tastes of its cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, grenache, and sauvignon blanc.

Just five minutes from Healdsburg Plaza, this lively tasting room offers a rotating line-up of wines set to the tunes of a listening station stocked with vinyl.

This Sebastopol winery’s co-founder was the first American hired as a winemaker and vineyard manager at a Burgundian estate in France. Littorai has built a cult following for its small-production pinot noir and chardonnay, and visitors can opt for the single vineyard tasting or the Gold Ridge Estate tour (which begins with a scenic walk through the farm and vineyard and concludes with a private tasting).

Set on a 100-acre property in the Russian River Valley, this winery takes the tasting experience to new heights by letting guests also explore its gardens, vineyards, and nature preserve. In addition to its pinot noir and chardonnay production, this is also a great destination for cuisine (the collectors’ lunch pairing is downright magical).

What to Do

Coastal Hikes

Much of what makes Sonoma County so distinct is its coastal region. Don’t skip this part! A hike with views of the Pacific Ocean can’t be beat, especially at Jenner Headlands Preserve, which sweeps across 5,630 acres and encompasses everything from redwood and Douglas-fir forests to coastal prairie. The preserve is free to visit (but leave a donation) and contains 15 miles worth of trails.

Produce Stands & Provisions

Seeing as Sonoma was an instrumental influence in the farm-to-table movement, it’s no surprise that a visit here should entail pit stops for local provisions. A few destinations to consider: Dry Creek Peach for the juiciest peaches in all the land, Bernier Farms for garlic seeds sold by the pound, Flatbed Farm for Meyer lemon curd, Wild Flour Bread for a fresh sourdough loaf, and Preston Farm and Winery for pasture-laid eggs. And that’s just scratching the surface. Arguably the best approach is to simply drive and stop when something roadside piques your attention.

Kayak the Russian River

So much of the Russian River’s identity has to do with wine, but lest we forget it is a river, and rivers were meant to be floated upon. If you’re an outdoor enthusiast, hop on a kayak or canoe to paddle through this beautiful waterscape, spotting ospreys and turtles along the way. And if you’re less inclined to work up a sweat, might we suggest a summertime float atop a tube?

Green Music Center

Catch a show (or movie, or live podcast taping) at this performing arts center at Sonoma State University. There are two main performance spaces: the intimate 240-seat Schroeder Hall, which resembles a cathedral, and the 1,400-seat Weill Hall, which during the summer opens its rear wall out to the lawn for a festive concert series.

Armstrong Redwoods Reserve

Ancient, magnificent, and certainly not to be missed—Sonoma’s coastal redwoods are (pardon the cliché) a wonder to behold. This 805-acre protected forest just north of Guerneville is dotted with old-growth trees that were spared during the logging boom of the 19th century, with heavy-hitters including Parson Jones rising 310 feet into the sky, and Colonel Armstrong, which is over 1400 years old. There’s a nice variety of trails, including wheelchair accessible routes, and interpretive signs that share stories of the landscape’s native people.

When to Visit

Sonoma has a mild Mediterranean climate year-round, but because the region stretches from the coastline to inland valleys, temperatures tend to vary. The best time to visit Sonoma mostly depends on your priorities. If you want consistently warm weather, go for summer; if you’d like to see the vineyards in action, arrive during harvest season in autumn; and if the idea of fewer crowds and better hotel rates sounds appealing, winter and early spring are solid choices (just remember it’ll be chillier).

What to Pack

Pack separates you can layer up or down as needed, and comfortable footwear for walking around. Though there’s a small handful of fine dining establishments that might call for an elevated look (ahem, SingleThread), Sonoma County prides itself on being relaxed, so there’s little worry about being underdressed. If you plan to hike, don’t forget a pair of boots or trekking sandals.

How to Get There

The Charles M. Schulz Sonoma County Airport (STS) in Santa Rosa is the closest option for the region. If you can’t find a direct flight into STS, Sonoma County is less than a two-hour drive from three international airports: San Francisco, Oakland, and Sacramento. Tip: If you’re flying into SFO, traffic during rush hour is godawful, so time your flight accordingly.