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A color application technique created by L’Oreal Professionnel, French blending uses strategic color placement to blend in your gray hair seamlessly. It’s a bespoke experience, says L’Oréal Professionnel ambassador Krista Bartik, where placement and tone are tailored to each client. “[It’s] much softer and more modern,” Bartik explains to Vogue. “Instead of covering grays, we blend them into the overall color using depth and dimension.”
Bartik says that there are three different types of French blending to choose from—first blending, retouch blending, and total blending—and which one you opt for is all dependent on how many grays you have.
First blending consists of adding soft lowlights and naturally blended clusters of grays to the hair. It’s an ideal choice for those experiencing their first grays. Retouch blending is more about maintaining a blended look; you soften the regrowth line at the root, and add in light and dimension to lengths and ends. Total blending makes the biggest impact, she says, as it addresses the whole head of hair and combines balayage and other coloring techniques for that diffused, natural finish.
Kadi Lee, celebrity colorist and founder of Highbrow Hippie, says that French blending doesn’t necessarily differ based on hair texture. Colorists usually have their own systems when approaching these methods to a client’s specific hair needs, she says, and French blending generally works for all hair textures. “What changes is the application [of the French blending],” agrees Bartik. “I adjust my formula, sectioning, and saturation based on the hair’s texture, so the blend looks as seamless as possible based on the client’s hair type.”
It can be broken down as follows:
For Straight Hair
Celebrity colorist Jenna Perry says that French blending on fine, straight hair is kept incredibly delicate. Think minimal baby highlights to avoid harsh lines or over-processing to focus on translucency and shine, she says.
For Wavy Hair
Lee says that French blending on wavy hair is particularly forgiving, as the natural movement and texture of the waves help color blend more effortlessly. Perry would place soft, ribbon-like highlights through the natural bends of the hair and gloss everything into an even tone. She also likes finishing it with a cut that enhances movement. “So the bend reads effortless and sunlit,” she says.
For Naturally Curly and Coily Hair
Similar to wavy hair, Lee says that curly and coily hair is one of the most forgiving hair types for gray blending. “The natural curl pattern creates built-in dimension and movement, which means color placement doesn’t need to be as precise,” she says. “The curls do the blending for you.”
She says the steps to French blending for curly and coily hair should follow the same framework you’d see with thin and wavy hair. But personally, she prefers to also use a comb-through technique to ensure every strand is evenly saturated.
There’s really just one main difference between these two very similar coloring techniques. Perry says to think of gray blending (which diffuses your natural grays into the rest of your hair) as the umbrella concept and French blending as a more precise, hand-painted placement. “Both approaches share the same philosophy,” adds Lee. “For most people, the better question to ask isn’t ‘French blending or gray blending?’ but rather ‘do I trust my colorist?’ to achieve a desired goal.”
If you want something soft and low-maintenance, Perry says that general gray blending works. But for something more elevated, French blending may be the move.
Whether it’s natural or blended, Lee explains that gray hair needs a special regimen for best upkeep. “It tends to be drier, coarser, and more prone to yellowing,” she says. “So the right routine makes a significant difference.”
She recommends regular gloss treatments at your salon and using moisturizing products, like her own Highbrow Hippie Instant Silk Vitality Mask, to nourish the scalp and the hair. Bartik agrees and says that at-home hair maintenance can help extend the life of color, and recommends something like the L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Hair Mask to help against color fading.
Perry recommends the Olaplex bond-building treatments and Olaplex Hydrating Mask for basic upkeep and the occasional violet shampoos to keep hair looking bright and feeling soft.
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