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Vogue

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First Reactions to Sarah Burton’s Givenchy Menswear Debut
Laure Guilbault · 2026-06-26 · via Vogue

In her first men’s presentation for Givenchy, Sarah Burton remained true to the signature she has established in womenswear: refined tailoring combined with couture sensibility, translated into menswear.

The presentation, held at Givenchy’s home at 3 Avenue George V, where she staged her debut women’s wear show for Fall/Winter 2025 in March 2025, featured 31 looks across three rooms. Each one was dedicated “to a different facet of wardrobe,” according to the press release. One focused on elevated everyday pieces and tailoring, another on sophisticated eveningwear, and the third on the leather tracksuits in bright colors, famously worn by Timothée Chalamet while promoting Marty Supreme. They were paired with the house’s new sneaker, dubbed the Puffy Yard. The pieces were showcased alongside works of the artist Rachel Whiteread. “I wanted this to feel very personal and intimate,” Burton said. Givenchy has staged men’s shows in the past. The last time was in January 2024.

Image may contain Timothe Chalamet Plant Potted Plant Performer Person Solo Performance Adult Clothing and Coat

Timothée Chalamet wearing Givenchy.Photo: Courtesy of Givenchy

Menswear has long been part of the house’s DNA. In 1969, Hubert de Givenchy launched a licensed line, Givenchy Gentleman. In 2003, Ozwald Boateng was appointed Givenchy’s first creative director for menswear, and the category accounted for a third of the business, according to Luke Leitch. Then, under Riccardo Tisci and brought back in-house, menswear was significant. “For spring 2009, Tisci was entrusted with the menswear design too: boom,” Luke Leitch wrote. The house’s menswear aesthetic has shifted over the years. Under Tisci (2005-2017), it leaned toward streetwear, while Clare Waight Keller (2017-2020) introduced a couture sensibility. Under Matthew Williams (2020-1 January 2024), it was back to streetwear.

“Givenchy menswear has been so many different things to so many different people. So I thought, ‘You know what, let’s just wipe it clean and start again,” Burton told Leitch during a walkthrough of the collection.

Image may contain Adult Person Clothing Coat Mannequin Footwear and Shoe

Sarah Burton’s Givenchy menswear debut was an intimate presentation.Photo: Courtesy of Givenchy

While Burton had created men’s collections for Givenchy since Fall/Winter 2025 and designed red carpet outfits for the likes of Brad Pitt (to promote F1 The Movie), Pedro Pascal, and Chalamet, this marks the first full men’s statement since she took on the role. Amplifying the presentation, Givenchy launched a campaign featuring the SS27 collection on billboards across Paris. It was shot by Juergen Teller and features photographer Sir Don McCullin, filmmaker Don Letts, and painter Danny Fox.

It was also a men’s presentation debut for new Givenchy CEO Amandine Ohayon, who took on the role on January 9. Ohayon succeeded Alessandro Valenti, who was appointed deputy managing director in charge of commercial activities at Christian Dior Couture. Ohayon joined Givenchy from Stella McCartney, where she was CEO for two years.

Chalamet’s tracksuits are already available in stores in black (priced at €3,700 for the jacket, €2,700 for the pants, and €790 for the Puffy Yard sneakers). The red version will also be available in stores, while the other colors will be available on special orders for VICs.

Image may contain Photography Face Head Person Portrait Clothing Coat Photographer Accessories Formal Wear and Tie

Givenchy’s SS27 menswear campaign, shot by Juergen Teller.Photo: Courtesy of Givenchy

LVMH doesn’t break down sales of individual houses of the fashion and leather goods division. Givenchy is part of the group’s Fashion Group, which also includes Fendi, Celine, and Loewe, and is led by Pietro Beccari.

“Givenchy, in the past, was able to create a sizable menswear business, creating legitimacy in the category,” says Mario Ortelli, managing director of Ortelli & Co. “The house is now leveraging that legitimacy and betting on menswear to build up on what Sarah Burton has done so far and gain traction.”

Here’s what the industry had to say about the collection.

Richard Johnson, chief business officer, LuxExperience Group

Sarah Burton brings Givenchy’s menswear codes under the same roof as her women’s vision, creating a collection that feels unmistakably part of the same house while retaining a confident masculine identity. Archival silk prints and intricate embroideries provide the clearest dialogue with the women’s collection, while tailored jackets and trousers are twisted and tucked into new proportions, revealing Burton’s precision. There are echoes of her previous work, but they are already beginning to resolve into a distinctly Givenchy language.

Nick Wooster, creative consultant

Menswear is rooted in tailoring first, and you can see it infusing the ideas here. I like the leather tracksuits in happy colors, the shearling collar leather bomber, and the embroidered military bomber. The camel coat was beautiful.

David Martin, editor-in-chief, Odda Magazine

My initial thoughts were focused on the ‘winterish’ feeling of some of the garments. Fabrics are, in my view, too warm, unless you are in the Southern hemisphere. That said, I really liked the gorgeous shirts with strong details such as the buttons, the well-cut pants, and the necklaces. Overall, while I see the intention of a wider audience to be represented across the collection, I feel a lighter proposal would help support sales.

Image may contain Clothing Coat Adult Person Mannequin and Indoors

Givenchy’s colorful tracksuits.Photo: Courtesy of Givenchy

Julie Gilhart, fashion consultant

I loved the collaboration with artist Rachel Whiteread. The way her work was interpreted through the fabrics and colors felt fresh and thoughtful. It’s a confident take on menswear with Sarah’s skillful tailoring.

Alix Morabito, chief merchandising officer, Galeries Lafayette

The new Givenchy man fits perfectly within the continuity of the women’s collection developed by Sarah Burton. The work on tailoring and the fairly rounded volumes, the patterns and embroidery, the work on leather, and the shoes are all elements that make the proposal distinctive and quickly recognizable.

Fabrice Paineau, founder of Double Magazine

The men’s collection draws on women's tailoring. For example, there’s a look in the presentation that’s very similar to the look worn by author Constance Debré during the woman’s show in March. I love the mirror effect, the way it shifts from woman to man, the conversation between the two.