Roses? For resort? Groundbreaking.

Yes, fashion’s favorite blooms—as rendered in a 1920s gardening book and in her own flower beds—feature throughout Cecilie Bahnsen’s latest pre-collection. But the visuals are only part of the story. The designer explained that she was particularly interested in hybrid tea roses. The idea of mixing “two different kinds of roses together to create an even more beautiful rose” got her thinking: “How can you mix two things you love or two things that are different and create something new?”

One of the methods she used to do so was to scale up the embroidered rose motif so that it became both a textural and graphic element. Also blown-up were the volumes of some of Bahnsen’s airy and sculptural dresses and skirts. The silhouettes are familiar but layering was used effectively to create a sense of novelty as when a sparkling caviar-colored sequined sheath was unexpectedly worn over a striped shirtdress. Also fresh: a sheer white frock layered over an acid neon green slip. “I like the way that transparency wasn’t just a way of showing construction,” the designer said. “Part of the process this time was…really working with the styling.”

Adding another layer of (relative) subversion was the way Bahnsen used materials out of context, like selecting a traditional evening fabric for a satiny yet sporty windbreaker and drawstring skirt in midnight blue, or an anorak in sheer organza. The designer was especially enthusiastic about an oversize oxford shirt with a pretty bow on one side. This was shown peeking out from under tight little jackets, “as if you just put your jacket over your pajamas,” said the designer.