Known for opulent dining rooms and chic bistros from Hong Kong to Palm Beach, 71-year-old Daniel Boulud has overseen his eponymous flagship on the Upper East Side of Manhattan — site of THR‘s New York issue party — for over 30 years. As he prepares to open his 25th restaurant — Brasserie Boulud across from Lincoln Center — he takes stock of the new power dining in New York.

How has the formality of fine dining changed in the past 30 years?

The OG restaurants are all less stuffy now; the approach is more casual and more global. The dressed-down code has evolved, which I think has contributed to the rise of private clubs. At my steakhouse, La Tete d’Or, we don’t have set rules, but 80 percent of the guests are properly attired. Those who prefer a more casual experience tend to gravitate toward the bar.

What trends are you noticing these days in what people are eating or drinking?

People are putting caviar on everything lately; it seems to be all over social media these days. At the same time, I’m seeing a renewed appreciation for the classics, from tableside service to restaurants that draw inspiration from the past. The classic bistro never really disappeared, but it’s enjoying a strong resurgence with places like Le Veau d’Or. And I’ve seen countless interpretations of Beef Wellington, despite the dish being over 200 years old. People are leaning more toward sharing, adding an extra dish or two for the table. There’s also a growing trend around mocktails, although wine and cocktail sales across our portfolio remain consistent.

Who are the young New York chefs and restaurateurs you admire these days? Any in L.A.?

I love Quique Crudo, the 14-seat bar from Cosme Aguilar, who also runs a well-known Mexican restaurant in Queens. I’m a fan of Rezdôra by Stefano Secchi, and Chez Fifi, which is small and classically done. In Los Angeles, I like Pasjoli by Dave Beran — it’s a fun spot — and I think Wolfgang Puck’s son, Byron, is the new kid on the block with real talent.

This story appeared in the May 6 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. Click here to subscribe.

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