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Treasured by locals, these restaurants aren’t typically found in tony, well-known towns like Healdsburg or Carmel. Most are family-owned, with a rustic charm and neon signs that function as beacons at rural crossroads. There are often almost as many motorcycles as cars in the dirt parking lots. The backbone of their respective communities, they’re ready to save you from the monotony of fast food.
Here are five wonderful, out-of-the-way places for Northern California road trippers to keep in their back pocket — some even worth a road trip in their own right.
“You’re not a local until you’ve been there for 20 years, or until you start feeding people — and they like your food,” says Scott Baird, who opened Jumbo’s Win-Win (opens in new tab) in the Mendocino County community of Philo in August 2024. A sprawling, home for onion smashburgers, wedge salads, and hand-cut fries (try them with house-made fermented chili paste), Jumbo’s brings admirable precision to some of life’s most approachable treats.
The burgers start with beef that’s been dry-aged for 30 days before it’s ground to achieve a specific ratio of lean to fat. “We like 78-22,” Baird says. “I don’t want 75-25, because it’s too much [fat], but it’s a little more than 80-20. My chef-y friends roll their eyes, but it works for me.”
Baird, a Bay Area expat who relocated up north during Covid, previously worked at 15 Romolo and opened Trick Dog before trying his hand at a roadside burger shack. Boonville is the Anderson Valley’s bigger town, he notes, with Philo being “the place where you stop for groceries if you’re going camping or on your way to the coast.” That may no longer be the case, however. Judging by the 100-plus guests washing their pickle dogs down with a Donna’s Pickle Beer under the trees on a recent Sunday afternoon, Jumbo’s may have put the town on the map.
Drive through Yosemite National Park on the staggeringly beautiful Highway 120 until it intersects with U.S. 395, and you’ll emerge on the rim of the Eastern Sierra in the tiny town of Lee Vining. There, perched above Mono Lake, you’ll find the Whoa Nellie Deli (opens in new tab) inside what might be the Golden State’s most beloved gas station, known as “The Mobil.” Essentially a general store with a bar-and-grill, a dozen gas pumps, and 24-hour restrooms, it’s a lifesaver for weary travelers who just white-knuckled it over Tioga Pass.
Whoa Nellie serves pancakes and breakfast burritos starting at 6:30 a.m., then transitions to a burger-and-sandwich spot that pours margaritas and pitchers of Mammoth Brewing Company’s Epic IPA into the evening. Keep an eye out for specials such as wild boar chops, and make sure to take your meal outside to the picnic area overlooking a remote and rugged part of California.
Owing to their remarkably preserved downtowns and beautiful Sierra foothills settings, Nevada City and nearby Grass Valley have boomed over the past 15 years. However fancy these second-home destinations have become, one biker-friendly, steakhouse remains as rustic as when it opened in 1969. Patrons at The Willo Steakhouse (opens in new tab) don’t just get to choose from among a protein-heavy menu of ribeye, pork chops, and catfish; they can actually watch it cook on the grill in the middle of the dining room.
Under new ownership as of 2024, The Willo claims to have served more than 1 million steaks. But the charming, kitschy decor remains intact — right down to a painting of the Bay Bridge complete with blinking lights. Note that this Thursday-through-Monday restaurant is dinner-only, but the bar opens at 1 p.m.
According to the restaurant’s lore, a man called Poor Red won this roadhouse in a game of dice more than 80 years ago. Then turned things over to his savvier wife, a gal by the name of Rich Opal. Together, they ran Poor Red’s BBQ (opens in new tab), a newly thriving restaurant and bar in the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hamlet of El Dorado, almost halfway between Sacramento and South Lake Tahoe.
Indoors, you’ll find a spectacular wooden bar and yellowed murals showing key scenes from California history. Outside, there’s a patio and performance space with ample seating. Come to Poor Red’s for the roast chicken, pulled pork sandwiches, and wings served by the pound, but stay for the Gold Cadillac (opens in new tab), a surprisingly potent cocktail made from the herbaceous vanilla liqueur Galliano, white crème de cacao, and cream. It’s served with a sidecar, and although it looks like a gentle milkshake, two might be plenty.
There’s lots to explore in the California Delta, from the home of the state’s only remaining rural Chinatown to the “floating Burning Man” known as Ephemerisle (opens in new tab). But the quirky, beautifully maintained town of Isleton has one of the region’s best stops for craft brew lovers: Mei Wah Beer Room (opens in new tab). Housed in a building that was constructed in the 1870s as a Chinese gambling hall and opium den, the 9-year-old, indoor-outdoor hangout has an impressive 24 rotating beers on tap.
There’s no food other than popcorn, but visitors are free to order in Chinese food from Pineapple across the street, or burritos from one of the several taquerias in town. And as a reminder that the Delta is a different place from the Bay Area, you may even get to pet some baby goats on the patio.
More about the author
Astrid Kane (they/them) aspires every day to be San Francisco’s No. 1 boom-loop booster, focusing on food and drink, culture, and LGBTQ+ issues. They live in the Mission.
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