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Fortune | FORTUNE

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A better sunscreen has been available in Europe for 25 ye...
Guy German · 2026-06-21 · via Fortune | FORTUNE

On June 9, 2026, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration approved the first new sunscreen ingredient to be permitted for over-the-counter consumer use in the U.S. since 1999 – a chemical called bemotrizinol.

Our planet is irradiated by a yellow dwarf star 93,000,000 miles away that we fondly call the Sun. It radiates light from its surface at a temperature of about 10,000 degrees Fahrenheit.

The Earth’s atmosphere blocks most of the Sun’s radiation. Of the rays that get through, about half consist of infrared light – which gives you that warm feeling you feel on a sunny day – and 40% visible light, which you are probably familiar with as daylight.

About 10% of those rays are ultraviolet, or UV, light. UV light has the shortest wavelengths of the three types. That makes it the most dangerous – it’s invisible and can damage living tissue.

Physicists further categorize solar UV light into several types, based on the wavelength, which is measured in nanometers. About 95% of it is UVA (315-400 nm) and 5% is UVB (280-315 nm). Sunscreens need to be able to block those rays from penetrating the skin.

The sun also emits two other types of UV light – UVC (200-280 nm) and vacuum UV (100-200 nm) – but these are stopped by the atmosphere, so sunscreens do not typically need to be able to block them.

A graphic depiction of UVA and UVB rays penetrating the skin and their deflection with sunscreen.
Scientists previously thought that only UVB rays were dangerous because they cause sunburns, but UVA can also damage the skin. m.malinika/iStock via Getty Images Plus

Scientists used to think only UVB was harmful because UVB rays cause sunburns. But today, researchers know both types of UV can damage the skin.

UVB, with its shorter wavelength, has more energy, but UVA can penetrate the skin more deeply. And all UV can degrade the integrity of your skin, damage the structure of your DNA and cause skin cancer.

The only natural safeguard your body has against UV light is a microscopically thin layer of a pigment called melanin in your epidermis. The skin produces more melanin when exposed to the sun – that’s what tanning is.

This extra melanin does protect the skin, but not fully. That’s why protecting your skin with sunscreen is so important.

Sunscreens old and new

Sunscreens come in two different forms – mineral and chemical.

The first chemical sunscreen, developed in 1891, was an ointment made from quinine – a plant-derived compound that makes tonic water bitter.

Chemical sunscreens cover the skin in a transparent coating, acting like a solar sponge. They absorb UV photons and undergo a harmless chemical reaction, then dissipate the energy as heat. Bemotrizinol falls into this category.

Mineral sunscreens such as zinc or titanium oxide ward off the Sun’s rays by forming a protective film that also absorbs most UV light, but reflects some of it. Unlike chemical sunscreens, the film absorbs the light naturally, without a chemical reaction – which is why they are often visible as a white film on the skin. https://www.youtube.com/embed/bzUn9iH-D2I?wmode=transparent&start=0 Bemotrizinol has some benefits over sunscreens already sold in the U.S.

Chemical sunscreens that have been available in the U.S until now combine ingredients like avobenzone, the most widely used UVA filter, with UVB filters such as octinoxate, octocrylene octisalate and homosalate. Working together, these substances protect the skin against the broad spectrum of ultraviolet rays.

These sunscreens are only effective for a short time because they are degraded by the chemical reactions they undergo, which means they must be frequently re-applied.

Another important element of sunscreen – whether mineral or chemical – is its Sun Protection Factor, or SPF. This number tells you how well a sunscreen prevents your skin from burning – in other words, what amount of UVB rays it absorbs.

An SPF of 2 would mean a sunscreen cuts your exposure to UVB rays in half, filtering out 50% of those rays. An SPF of 30 means the sunscreen lets just 1/30 of the rays penetrate your skin – which is 3.3%. So it blocks about 97% of the UVB rays.

Dermatologists generally recommend using a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30.

Benefits of bemotrizonol

Bemotrizinol, while new to the U.S., isn’t a new compound. European regulators approved it in 2000. Chances are, if you brought back sunscreen from a vacation in Mexico, Europe, Canada or South Korea, you may even have some laying around your house.

One benefit of bemotrizinol is its ability to filter both UVA and UVB rays, so it doesn’t have to be mixed with other products to do the job.

It has some other beneficial features as well. First, its molecules prefer to sit on the surface of the skin rather than being more readily absorbed into the bloodstream, which can occur for some formulations.

Such absorption has raised concerns that sunscreens might be harmful – though this has not been demonstrated in people, it may discourage some people from using it.

Bemotrizinol also does not degrade as readily in the sun than other chemical sunscreen products. That photostability means it can last for four to eight hours, rather than having to be applied every two hours or so.

Regardless of the type, as a skin scientist I can say with certainty that any sunscreen is better than none. Your skin does an excellent job protecting you from the world outside – so make sure you protect it in return.

Guy German, Associate Professor of Biomedical Engineering, Binghamton University, State University of New York

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.

The Conversation