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British climber sets record with 20th Everest summit
2026-05-22 · via Al Jazeera – Breaking News, World News and Video from Al Jazeera

Kenton Cool is the first non-Nepali to have reached the top of Mount Everest 20 times.

A 52-year-old British climber has set a new record as he summited Mount Everest for a 20th time.

Kenton Cool became the first non-Nepali climber to conquer the world’s highest peak 20 times before dawn on Friday. However, as he celebrated his achievement and began his descent, voices called for limiting activity on the 8,849-metre (29,032ft) mountain as it was reported that two Indian climbers had died.

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Cool is expected to reach the base camp over the weekend after his latest summit. In a statement carried by the Reuters news agency, he said climbing Mount Everest never gets “any easier or any less frightening. It’s the tallest mountain in the world and with it comes an incredible sense of majesty.

“I rely on every bit of experience ⁠I have to move safely in this environment. Standing on the summit for the twentieth time is incredibly special.”

British climber Kenton Cool, 49,
British climber Kenton Cool set a new record as he climbed Everest for the 20th time (File: Reuters)

Cool is the first non-Sherpa to achieve the feat, but at least seven Nepali climbers have more than 20 summits under their belt.

Fifty-five-year-old Kami Rita Sherpa, or “Everest Man” climbed the summit for the 32nd time – extending the world record – on Sunday.

The British climber first reached Everest’s peak in 2004 and has since taken an expedition almost every year. His journey to the top of the world was not without hardship; he was once told he would never walk unaided again, after a rock-climbing accident in 1996 left both his heel bones broken.

Four-time Everest climber and expedition organiser Lukas Furtenbach told Reuters that Cool was “quietly rewriting the record books”, praising him as an “absolute legend” for racking up more Everest summits than any non-Sherpa in history.

Limit

Cool’s achievement follows on the heels of another record. On Wednesday, more than 270 climbers ascended via Nepal’s southern route, the most in a single day. That came amid calls for action to prevent overcrowding and improve safety.

Two Indian climbers were reported on Friday to have reached the peak, but to have died during their descent after they “fell ill”, Nivesh Karki, director at Pioneer Adventure, told the AFP news agency.

Authorities are trying to bring the bodies down from the summit. Officials said the incident brings the death toll during this Everest season to five.

Eight of the world’s 10 highest peaks are in Nepal, and thousands of people attempt to climb the mountains every year. Pictures posted by climbers show a long line of people climbing up fixed ropes, queueing in the icy, low-oxygen high-altitude zones.

Kami Rita Sherpa on Friday expressed concern about the experience of climbers.

“The government should regulate this a bit,” he told AFP. “They should let in only climbers of quality; there should be a limit.”