Pastries have gone viral in Hong Kong, resulting in a flurry of hip bakeries opening in recent months. Boasting stylish interiors, bold branding and Instagram-worthy desserts, many are run by larger-than-life personalities vying to be the next Cédric Grolet.

Finesse Patisserie by local pastry chef Mandy Siu is a different breed altogether. This tiny cake shop is easy to miss with its understated exterior and off-the-beaten-track location in the Star Street neighbourhood.

Inside, you’ll find intricately detailed pastries lined up in a glass case like beautiful jewels, each one a tribute to a French classic but with an unexpected touch – a Madagascar vanilla entremet becomes an indulgent snack with popcorn and cornflakes; citron tarts are laced with black lime; and Mont Blancs are layered with quince jam that has been slowly cooked to add a subtle sweetness.

“I want my customers to feel curious, like they’re tasting something new yet familiar. I use ingredients often found in fine dining, but in ways that feel approachable,” says Siu. “More than anything, I hope they feel happy and carefree while enjoying it, without overthinking. Good dessert should bring joy.”

At only 38 years old, Siu is one of a growing group of female chefs who is disrupting the local pastry scene with their fresh vision and bold flavours. Born and raised in Hong Kong, she dabbled in baking as a hobby when she was a teen and completed a few courses at a Vocational Training Centre. After graduating from secondary school, she decided to find a job in a professional kitchen rather than continue her studies.

“Someone I knew introduced me to the chef at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and I got a job despite the fact I had no experience. Back then not many people worked in the industry unless it was at a five-star hotel. They also preferred men because they could do the heavy lifting,” remembers Siu.

Robouchon proved to be a tough training ground for the then 18-year-old, but she took it as an opportunity to learn as much as possible. Her hard work paid off when she was approached a few years later to join the opening team for the Ritz-Carlton in Hong Kong.

The next 15 years saw her continuing to gain more experience both in Hong Kong, where she worked at The Peninsula, and in London, where she enjoyed stints working for the likes of Heston Blumenthal and Dominique Ansel.