When Gildo Zegna started to think about succession planning at the company that his grandfather founded in 1910, he knew he had big shoes to fill: his own. The grandson of Ermenegildo Zegna, Gildo is single-handedly responsible for turning a family-run menswear label that began as a textile mill in Northern Italy into a publicly listed global powerhouse.

While Gildo decided to keep things in the family, he came up with an unusual structure by naming his two sons – Angelo and Edoardo – co-CEOs of the Zegna brand, and Gianluca Tagliabue, a company insider, CEO of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. The group was established after Zegna acquired Thom Browne in 2018 and Tom Ford in 2023.

“I figured that having co-CEOs and co-leadership would be the best solution; it’s something I learned from the tech industry in the US,” said Gildo in an interview in Los Angeles the day after a blockbuster event unveiling the brand’s spring/summer 2027 collection. “Edoardo is an extrovert, and is very brave and creative, while Angelo is very methodical, precise and number-focused. They paid their dues and in the end we decided that we needed two roles to replace me at Zegna, which is the most important brand in the group [comprising] 62 per cent of the business.”

It’s a pragmatic approach that has served Zegna well as the company has gone through a major reset, transforming from a buttoned-up brand known for formalwear into a dynamic label offering a full wardrobe of leisurewear and accessories such as its bestselling Triple Stitch sneakers.

A key element of Zegna’s new direction is a focus on the final customer, Gildo explained, with initiatives such as destination shows – in Dubai last year and Los Angeles this year – and Villa Zegna, a roving invitation-only private club.

Villa Zegna debuted in 2024 and has since been brought to Shanghai, New York, Dubai, Miami, Milan and now Los Angeles, after the spring/summer 2027 show. Recreating a summer residence within the hallowed grounds of the legendary Chateau Marmont, the Los Angeles space was a celebration of all things Zegna and Italian joie de vivre. Lounges, bars and even a news-stand inspired by those seen in Italian piazzas were part of the set-up.

Villa Zegna is an effective way to cultivate high-spending customers and immerse them in the universe of Zegna while also giving them the chance to update their wardrobes with custom-made garments and unique pieces.

“It is only by invitation and the great thing is that many of the products available here can’t be found in stores,” said Gildo, who now acts as group executive chairman. “We offer everything made to measure – even shirts, sweaters and sneakers. They’re very exclusive and expensive items. It builds our credibility and helps clients understand what makes us unique. There’s a lot of work behind all this.”