Across Bangkok, aromas of garlic, chilli and grilled meat drift from roadside stalls and carts, but tighter controls on vendors threaten livelihoods and the street food culture that defines the Thai capital.

Convenient, full of flavour and popular among locals and tourists alike, Bangkok’s street food is one of the city’s signatures, where sizzling woks and smoky charcoal grills turn boulevards and pavements into open-air kitchens from morning until late at night.

But many street sellers in the foodie paradise face an uncertain future as the Bangkok government in recent years has moved to clear footpaths, improve order and relocate vendors from kerbsides in packed commercial districts to designated market stalls.

“I am worried because we are here illegally,” said Looknam Sinwirakit, who was once fined 1,000 baht (US$30) for obstructing the street while selling 50-baht fried glutinous rice cakes in the capital’s Chinatown.

One of Bangkok’s busiest tourist areas, the neighbourhood’s steady flow of customers is worth the risk of city fines, Looknam, 45, said.

“Vendors need to earn a living,” she said. “It’s not fair just to evict us, but if they tell us to [leave] then we have to.”