Few items of clothing have sparked more debate in the music industry in recent months than the babydoll.

The short, floaty nightgown has long been seen on female performers. Still, it has become a hot topic on social media thanks to the feminine aesthetic of singers like Olivia Rodrigo and Sabrina Carpenter.

Critics accuse the singers of deliberately styling themselves as childlike and giving off Lolita vibes.

A closer look shows that the debate is about more than just fashion. It is about how female pop stars are perceived and judged – and why their appearance so often speaks louder than their art.

On Instagram, Rodrigo recently presented her followers with the cover for her latest album, You Seem Pretty Sad for a Girl So in Love. It shows her, in a pink dress somewhat reminiscent of a school uniform, on a swing.

For many, this is a reference to the current pop culture phenomenon of girlhood: a playful, solidarity-driven celebration of femininity that filmmaker Sofia Coppola and fellow singer Sabrina Carpenter also espouse.