Big JJ Seafood Hotpot opened in a quiet, dead-end lane off Lan Kwai Fong in Hong Kong’s Central neighbourhood in July 2020, garnering acclaim for elevating hotpot – a dining staple in the city – with premium ingredients, attentive service and a down-to-earth approach.

After five and a half years, the local favourite has relocated to one of the most unlikely locations in Central for hotpot: the basement of Landmark Prince’s, a building that houses major fashion brands such as Cartier, Hermès and Ralph Lauren.

“Our concept is to elevate something very local but not always done well to an international standard,” says founder Peter Pang, who considers the space a “global flagship store” that will reach a new demographic of diners.

The restaurant’s Instagram bio, which used to cheekily describe the original venue as “a wine bar with average hotpot food”, has been updated to read “Central’s gastronomic social club”.

Pang points out that some nearby establishments, such as the Man Wah restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, reinterpret Cantonese culture very well and are recognised by the likes of Michelin. Meanwhile, when local institutions such as cha chaan tengs gain mass acclaim, they often stick to their original recipes and operations, but may upgrade with nicer interiors and higher prices.

Instead of following a played-out formula, Pang believes in pushing the envelope so far that hotpot goes beyond its expected target customer.