Widely regarded as Britain’s most influential fashion designer, the late Vivienne Westwood is often remembered as much for her jewellery as for her clothes. It was 1986 when her now-iconic brand logo, The Orb, was born, inspired by British royal insignia but infused with Westwood’s signature rebellious touch. Today, her version of the royal orb, adorned with the rings of Saturn, is a house staple adorning choker necklaces and other punk jewellery pieces, like talismans representing the designer’s all-encompassing creative universe.

Long before Westwood made a name for herself in fashion, in fact, she studied silversmithing at London’s Harrow Art School and sold handmade jewellery at the Portobello Road Market. The “mother of punk” and her extensive archive of jewellery designs are the focus of a celebrated exhibition, “Vivienne Westwood & Jewellery”, which opened at Macau’s Grand Lisboa Palace Resort this week, following successful stops in Shanghai and Chengdu. Westwood’s well-documented activist streak takes on new meaning when viewed in this context; while she often used fashion as a platform for subverting social norms, nowhere are her contrarian ways and idiosyncratic point of view more apparent than in her jewellery.

Dissecting that legacy into eight thematic chapters, each of which is curated to focus on a specific idea, emblem or time period that defined Westwood’s work, the exhibition appeals to more than just average fashion enthusiasts. Fans and practitioners of artisanal crafts, ancient history and art history buffs, and anyone with remote interest in pop culture will find plenty of spectacular references throughout the exhibition, from accessories inspired by and created with indigenous African artists to original renditions of Hellenistic-style jewellery from ancient Greece and a pair of cherub earrings adorned with pearls, made for and worn by Katy Perry during her performance at King Charles’ coronation in 2023.

The breadth of designs on display speaks to Westwood’s continued hold on the public imagination even years after her passing in 2022. Origins focuses on those early years during which her unorthodox views and growing affinity for the punk movement first started to take shape, while Parure illustrates her long-lasting admiration of the Age of Enlightenment, when intellectualism was on the rise and 18th century art and aesthetics began challenging previously held traditions. Do It Yourself, as the name suggests, shines the spotlight on Westwood’s upcycled jewellery pieces, an ode to her environmental activism and penchant for finding beauty in unexpected combinations, from floral pieces made with Perrier water bottle caps to cola can necklaces.

The exhibition also marks the first time the designer’s runway and archival jewellery are being shown as a singular collection. At the opening ceremony for the exhibition hosted by SJM Resorts on Tuesday, stars like Miyeon of K-pop group I-dle and Anson Lo from Hong Kong boy band Mirror were among the esteemed guests invited to explore this comprehensive tribute to Westwood and look at her storied career in a new light. “It’s far different from the traditional jewellery I’ve seen,” said Lo, picking a teddy bear necklace from the whimsical Wonderland section of the exhibition as his favourite. “It’s more playful, colourful, and very fun.”