Thirty years ago, Dong Zhenxiang ate a bowl of snake soup at a small Hong Kong stall.
In the years since, he has built his Da Dong catering group into one of China’s most celebrated restaurant empires. But of all the delicacies he has encountered throughout a career that has taken him from the kitchens of Beijing to collaborations with Alain Ducasse in Paris, the memory of that single dish – and one ingredient in particular – refuses to fade.
“I still remember the fragrance of the kaffir lime leaves,” he says. “They were cut thinner than a strand of hair.”
The dish was, more specifically, Taishi five-snake soup. Although Dong does not remember the name of the shop or know if it still exists, what has stayed with him is the “ingenuity of the cuisine”.
This memory resulted in a recent collaboration with Li Chi-wai, the executive chef of The Legacy House at the Rosewood Hong Kong hotel. Together, they set out to revive a dish that has all but vanished.
To understand the soup, one must first understand the man who gave it his name.
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