Heritage crafts have always formed a core part of the luxury brand story, with legacy houses leveraging their traditional skills, techniques and exceptional workmanship to set them apart from the rest. As it becomes one of the industry’s most valuable currencies, emerging brands are following in kind by embracing traditional crafts as a way to differentiate themselves while appealing to the tastes of the modern consumer.

Take American label Bode, one of the first of this new generation of craft-focused brands, which was founded by International Woolmark Prize winner Emily Adams Bode Aujla. A favourite with collectors and fashion lovers, its handmade garments are crafted from upcycled antique textiles and historical fabrics, creating not only modern pieces but a narrative that is rich and compelling.

Also winning accolades is Diotima, which has become a celebrity favourite with its collections that showcase artisanal techniques created by communities in Jamaica – including its signature crochet and macramé. These are brought to life through the cool and contemporary aesthetic of founder Rachel Scott.

LVMH Prize semi-finalist Josh Tafoya is another one to watch for his modern take on the style and heritage of the American Southwest. Born in Taos, New Mexico, to a ranching family, the Parsons School of Design graduate learned how to weave from one of his aunts who is a master weaver.

“Within that process I started exploring the history of my family along with the history of weaving, which led to the creation of my fashion brand,” explains Tafoya. “I wanted to create work that had a personal story and meaning behind it. I also wanted to bring part of my culture’s history into a contemporary context while innovating our traditional crafts.”

Tafoya’s designs may pay tribute to past techniques – including a dying craft called Rio Grande weaving – but they also make a statement about fashion’s future. Sculptural shapes, bold colours, clashing patterns and intricate details lace collections that reference everything from religious iconography to camp aesthetics.

“I used to approach these crafts in the way they were intended by weaving blankets, ponchos, serapes in my collections, but I realised I could do so much more. It’s about how craft and heritage relate to me today, which means experimenting with shapes, silhouettes and styles, then including other fibres and embellishments,” he says.

Chinese designer Kinyan Lam has also referenced his heritage to create a line of clothing that showcases craftsmanship in a modern and approachable way. A graduate of the Hong Kong Design Institute, he became passionate about the art of dyeing, which inspired him to launch his own eponymously named label in 2023.