It is 10 in the morning and I am handed a shot of baijiu at the Yulin Comprehensive Market, in Chengdu’s Wuhou district. The woman who poured the strong, clear spirit eyes me uncertainly. “This is 52 per cent,” she warns.

My guide, chef Steven Tang of the one-Michelin-star Mi Xun Teahouse at Upper House Chengdu, provides some background.

“Sichuan has a long history of baijiu brewing, with countless small distilleries each unique,” he says. “This time-honoured brand [you are drinking] from Qionglai, 70 kilometres [43 miles] southwest of Chengdu, is all handmade and wonderful for cooking.”

Baijiu – a clear spirit distilled from sorghum that is usually between 40 and 60 per cent ABV – is a fixture at Chinese weddings and new year celebrations, yet its most important work happens quietly in Sichuan kitchens.

“It removes gamey smells from meat, especially organs,” Tang says. “Added to chilli oil, it boosts aroma, colour and shelf life.”

Baijiu also works magic on sun-dried waxed meats like Sichuan sausages, inhibiting bacteria while infusing the items with flavour. Above us, cured meats hang like edible chandeliers. It is late winter, and the curing season is now behind us.