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從廚房到鏡頭,再回到廚房:美食、食慾與現代自我
2026-03-19 · via neverland

從廚房到鏡頭,再回到廚房:美食、食慾與現代自我 (2026-03-19 10:23)

鍾娜

兩年後,全球金融危機爆發。和過去的、未來的金融危機一樣,2007 年末到 2009 年期間這場為時 19 個月的金融危機改變了美國乃至西方家庭的飲食習慣。收入縮減導致外食減少,食材選擇雖然 變化不大,但品質降低,購買頻次減少。如何將有限配料變成令人滿足的佳餚,成為所有家庭成員關心的話題。與此同時,在經濟蕭條中失業的男性回歸家庭,參與烹飪的機會相對增多,收看電視節目的時間變長。為了更好地瞄準這類原本對美食節目缺乏興趣的觀眾,平台決定加入「競技」元素。

Fischler 認為,正是這種雜食者的悖論讓吃不僅是簡單的「進食」,而成為一種具有豐富內涵的「接 納」(incorporation)——讓食物穿過世界和自我的邊界,從身體「外部」進入「內部」。吃的後果常常是不可逆的。接納一種食物就意味着接納它的全部或部分屬性(所以才有民間迷信「吃什麼補什麼」)。我們由我們所吃下的食物定義,通過建立接納的原則(它很大程度上體現為味覺),(也就 是俗稱的「口味」)我們試圖掌控自己的身體、心靈乃至身份。

「現代食客變成了一位純粹的『消費者』……在 ta 眼中,現代食品變成一種『無法確知的可食用物品』,沒有源頭和歷史,沒有值得尊重的過去,簡而言之,沒有身份。」

烹飪可以被概括為將自然(Nature)馴化為文化(Culture)的手段,和巫術淵源頗深。人類學家 Yvonne Verdier 曾指出,巫婆就是廚師,或者說「反廚師」(anti-cook),她咕嘟作響的大缸和令人作嘔的配料是對烹飪的模仿和顛覆。就像巫術旨在釋放某種超自然的力量,烹飪旨在「賦予食物和它的食用者在世間的位置,一種意義……它將事物歸於世界的秩序之中,從而確認世界依然井然有序」。

The human being thrives on his needs; he is happy for his needs … Living from ... is the dependency that turns into sovereignty, into happiness.

適度而自覺的飲食代表將一種規律、圖案、邏輯引入日常生活.

[B]ecause life is happiness it is personal.