Courgettes don’t have to be boring, thanks to their shapeshifting magic. Shave with a vegetable peeler, douse in olive oil and lemon juice and eat raw, or spiralise for noodles. Alternatively, grill until blackened, scoop out the creamy innards, and fold into tahini for a smoky dip. Courgettes are irresistible grated and turned into fritters, deep-fried or cut into thick rounds and roasted on a high heat so they caramelise, but don’t turn to mush. Finally, you can pickle them to enjoy their sunny flavour in the gloomier months.

Courgette, pul biber and preserved lemon loaf (pictured top)

The addition of grated courgette makes for a deliciously moist loaf. The dough requires no heavy kneading or proving, either, making this easy to prepare.

Prep 10 min
Drain 1 hr
Cook 55 min
Makes 1 small loaf

300g grated courgettes
2 tsp sea salt
200g self-raising flour
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp pul biber
Rind of 2 preserved lemons, finely chopped
1 heaped tbsp fresh oregano, finely chopped
30g flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
100g extra-mature cheddar, grated
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tbsp whole milk
Olive oil

Put the courgettes in a colander, sprinkle and massage them with a teaspoon of salt, then set aside for an hour to drain off the excess liquid. Rinse the courgettes, turn them out on to a clean tea towel and wring out any excess liquid.

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. In a large bowl, mix the courgettes, flour, remaining salt, some pepper, pul biber, preserved lemon, oregano, parsley, cheddar, egg and milk to form a soft dough (be careful not to overwork the mix). Shape into a round and put on a baking sheet greased with olive oil.

Bake for 40-45 minutes, until the loaf is golden and makes a hollow sound when tapped. Remove, put on a rack to cool, and serve warm, cut into eight or so slices, with butter or olive oil.

Stir-fried courgettes with crisp tofu and chilli sauce

This is an addictive and incredibly quick weeknight stir-fry that makes great use of any courgettes languishing in your fridge.

Prep 10 min
Cook 20 min
Serves 4

125ml neutral oil, such as avocado
450g extra-firm tofu (I love the Tofoo Co’s), torn into bite-sized chunks
2-3 courgettes (about 350g), cut into 1cm-thick rounds
5 spring onions, trimmed and cut into batons
Toasted white sesame seeds, to garnish
Rice, to serve

For the chilli sauce
1 tsp cornflour
3 garlic cloves, peeled and very finely chopped
2 tbsp crisp chilli oil
3 tbsp Chinkiang vinegar, or a mixture of 2 tbsp rice vinegar and 1 tbsp red-wine vinegar
1 tsp sesame oil
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp caster sugar

Start by making the sauce. In a small bowl, mix two tablespoons of cold water with the cornflour, then add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine.

Heat the oil in a wok until very hot, then stir-fry the tofu in batches until it’s golden brown all over. Drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper. Pour away all but one tablespoon of the oil (save it to use another time) and return the pan to a high heat. Add the courgettes and spring onions, and stir-fry for two to three minutes, until they turn golden but retain their texture.

Pour in the sauce, let it come to a bubble and thicken, then add the fried tofu and stir to coat it in the sauce. Sprinkle over the sesame seeds and serve with rice.

Courgette achaar

This pickle is an extremely welcome addition in a cheese sandwich or on a cheeseboard.

Prep 10 min
Drain 1 hr
Cook 20 min
Makes 1 x 750ml jar

500g courgettes, sliced into thin 2mm rounds (I like to use a mix of yellow and green)
1 tsp salt
1 tsp turmeric
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
½ tsp brown mustard seeds, coarsely ground
1 tsp nigella seeds, coarsely ground
1 tsp fennel seeds, coarsely ground
1/2 tsp red chilli flakes
3cm piece ginger, peeled and grated
3 tbsp soft brown sugar, or jaggery
3 tbsp white-wine vinegar

Put the sliced courgettes in a piece of muslin, sprinkle with the salt and turmeric, and leave for at least an hour to draw out the moisture.

Heat a little rapeseed oil, add all the coarsely ground spices and cook until they crackle. Add the chilli flakes and ginger, and saute until fragrant. Scatter in the sugar and pour in the vinegar, then, once that’s bubbling, turn down the heat and cook for a further six minutes, until the vinegar has reduced and you are left with a rich sauce. Throw in the courgettes, toss well and take off the heat immediately. Store in a sterilised jar, where it will keep in the fridge for up to a week.