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Goodbye, pilates princess – hello, gym goblin: how the ju...
https://www.theguardian.com/profile/leah-harper · 2026-06-23 · via The Guardian

At first, the goblins came for our downtime. Going “goblin mode” was a lifestyle confined to the home – to the bed, mostly. The “comforts of depravity” it brought (“watching 90 Day Fiancé on mute while scrolling endlessly through social media, pouring the end of a bag of chips in your mouth”, for example) weren’t compatible with doing anything productive.

Enter the gym goblin. The optics remain much the same – think ancient T-shirts, knackered socks, oversized cardigans – but the setting has changed, with goblincore devotees rising up from unmade beds, Diet Cokes in hand, to hit the treadmill. It’s Diana, Princess of Wales’s oversized college sweatshirts meets Josh O’Connor’s half-tracksuit look for the Disclosure Day press tour – and the polar opposite of the matcha-drinking, Lululemoned “clean girl” aesthetic that dominates fitness circles.

Josh O’Connor in green tracksuit bottoms with yellow stripes, trainers, and a black T-shirt with a red open shirt over it
The half-tracksuit look … Josh O’Connor in New York this month. Photograph: Aeon/GC Images

When Harry Styles was photographed for the spring 2026 issue of Runner’s World, it’s telling that stylist Harry Lambert sourced secondhand trainers and a vintage Adidas T-shirt to pair with retro-style track jackets and shorts for the singer. And let’s not forget the vintage Donald Duck cap, complete with beak peak – very “I found this on my bedroom floor”. Elsewhere, Jennifer Lawrence was last month spotted leaving her house in a vintage Mickey Mouse T-shirt, paired with red track pants and Adidas sliders – a look that less fashion-forward types might have reserved for duvet days only.

Gym goblins may have conceded the need to venture further than the nearest corner shop, but they are not about to adopt the highly optimised athleisure wardrobe or wellness-centred mindset of “that girl” – a vanilla blend of self-care and self-improvement. To signal their more nonchalant approach, vintage kit is key. Earlier this month, the FT reported that, between December 2025 and March this year, eBay searches for “vintage sportswear” and “90s sportswear” both increased 300%, while searches for “90s Reebok” were up 700%.

Harry Styles in sunglasses jogging over a road crossing wearing a white sweatshirt with graphic print, grey shorts and white trainers and socks while holding a phone and with headphones on
Harry Styles in gym goblin mode in New York, on 11 March 2026. Photograph: XNY/Star Max/GC Images

Secondhand clothing retailer Rokit also reports significant growth in sales of brands such as Puma and Onitsuka Tiger, as well as a rise in popularity of low-profile trainers and the wider Y2K aesthetic. “Sports jersey sales have climbed dramatically in recent years, supported by England’s success in international tournaments and gen Z’s embrace of creative, juxtaposed styling,” says Rokit’s creative director, Eibhleann McMahon. “We’ve seen a surge in demand for polos, track tops and sports shorts. Add to that the continued growth of streetwear and performance trends such as gorpcore [fashion’s love of outdoor labels] and technical mountain wear, and sportswear has become firmly embedded within contemporary fashion.”

Actors from Rivals in matching outfits of red or blue singlets and short shorts running in a sports competition
Rivals’ sexed-up Golden Gauntlet competition. Photograph: Robert Viglasky/Disney

With Adidas trackies now “a fashion girl staple”, making the switch to similar retro-style running shorts during the summer months feels almost inevitable; early adopter Zoë Kravitz has been pairing hers with a Black History Month T-shirt. And while much attention was paid to Carolyn Bessette Kennedy’s minimalist 90s style in Ryan Murphy’s TV hit Love Story, fashion points were also duly awarded to JFK Jr for his backwards baseball caps, casual sweaters and relaxed sports shorts. Heated Rivalry’s hockey jerseys and Rivals’ sexed-up Golden Gauntlet competition might also be credited with prompting a sportswear awakening in recent months.

Elsewhere, Instagram vintage resale shop Rummage Stretch has amassed 12,000 followers by posting what could be described as gym-goblin inspo: leopard-print cami tops paired with capri leggings; Sex and the City’s Samantha Jones in head-to-toe orange at a yoga class; Hilary Swank in a grey T-shirt in 1994’s The Next Karate Kid.

Dallas-based stylist Mikaela Adams says the surging interest in vintage sportswear may be a result of people seeking greater individuality with their fitness fits. “We’ve spent years in the era of matching activewear sets and the ‘pilates princess’ aesthetic. There’s a growing desire to wear something that feels more personally authentic and unique.”

Zoë Kravitz in sunglasses, carrying iced coffee and an YSL handbag and wearing a red Black History Month T-shirt with black shorts and mules
Early adopter … Zoë Kravitz in Black History Month T-shirt, shorts and heels, in July 2025. Photograph: AKGS/Backgrid

Meanwhile, the goblin mindset continues to prioritise comfort and practicality. “Many of these pieces were made to move, sweat and train in, so they function just as well in a workout setting as they do running errands, grabbing coffee, or working remotely,” says Adams.

Hilary Swank crouched with fists up wearing a grey T-shirt, dark jogging trousers and white trainers
Hilary Swank in The Next Karate Kid (1994). Photograph: Maximum Film/Alamy

It’s a trend that has been filtering through to the gym floor itself – and even yoga, barre and pilates classes, where colour-coordinated gym sets were perhaps most prevalent.

“We’ve seen a noticeable move away from highly curated, matching sets,” says Holly Evans, teacher-training manager and instructor at the yoga studio chain MoreYoga. “There’s a growing appetite for nostalgic references, whether that’s 1970s track-and-field aesthetics, 1980s aerobics influences or the oversized sportswear looks associated with the 1990s. We’re seeing people swap sculpting leggings for retro running shorts, looser joggers and relaxed-fit flares.”

Diana wearing a baggy navy sweatshirt with ‘Fly Atlantic’ logo, peach stretch shorts and white ankle socks and trainers
Diana, Princess of Wales wearing a Virgin Atlantic sweatshirt, in November 1995. Photograph: Anwar Hussein/WireImage

But what does fatigue with the pilates princess aesthetic mean for the future of fitness – and can chaotic goblin-style hedonism ever be truly compatible with the world of macros and supersets?

For Evans, the two are not necessarily at odds – rather the shift reflects positive changes within the industry itself. “Fitness has become more diverse,” she says. “As people move between yoga, pilates, strength training, walking and social sports, they’re choosing clothing that works across multiple activities.” Meanwhile, rewearing existing pieces aligns with a broader move towards sustainability and conscious spending. “When people feel less pressure to wear expensive or trend-led activewear, yoga becomes more accessible and welcoming. It reinforces the idea that participation matters more than presentation.”

And when only self-indulgent bed rotting will do? Kick off your preloved Reeboks and call it a rest day.