Why go now
My favourite way to enter Rione Sanità is by elevator: descending from a bridge into cobblestoned streets buzzing with mopeds and flanked by opulent but decaying 18th-century palazzi. Through the grand doorways of these once noble palaces are courtyards where bakers, butchers, cobblers and the odd contraband cigarette vendor do business.
La Sanità – to the locals – is a thriving working-class district with a grand history. In the 17th century, the Spanish viceroys took a fancy to the area perched on the hill above the dense and crowded streets of the old town. Its name, which translates as “healthy district”, reflected a cleaner reputation (rainfall ran downhill, depositing debris and waste in the historic centre below). They built vast houses here in the 18th century (see Palazzo dello Spagnolo and Palazzo San Felice), with architects vying for attention as the court passed through to Capodimonte, the royal summer residence above the city. Business flourished until Napoleon arrived in the early 19th century, found the route too slow, and built the overpass that eventually suffocated the area and left it fighting for its life.
Emboldened by one too many fatal gang wars and a blighted reputation, local residents came together several years ago to form associations such as Napoli in Vita, with the aim of opening up the area, supporting local business and creating employment. The result is a neighbourhood renaissance led by the community for the community, which has quickly become an example for the whole city in the midst of mass touristification.
Where to eat and drink
Trying the local pizzerias is non-negotiable. It was in La Sanità that Sophia Loren famously kneaded pizza dough in Vittorio De Sica’s film L’oro di Napoli (Gold of Naples); and the award-winning Isabella De Cham runs the city’s first all-female fried pizza spot – her tiny montanare pizzas are loaded with cheese, vegetables and ham.
Pizzeria Oliva da Carla e Salvatore, the locals’ favourite, has a view of the majolica-clad basilica. Concettina ai Tre Santi draws food pilgrims from across the world for head chef Ciro Oliva’s deconstructed pizza and his focus on using the best local producers and ingredients. Wash it down with Vesuvian wine at Antica Cantina Sepe on Via Vergini, a fixture for generations and one of the forces quietly reshaping the neighbourhood by hosting community events and keeping prices affordable and inclusive.
Cultural experiences
There is as much to see below ground in La Sanità as above. In the Hellenistic period, it was a sacred burial ground and beneath the soft tufo stone lies a warren of tunnels and hollowed-out chambers, now home to garages and workshops such as Fonderia Mercogliano, which casts religious objects from metal. The San Gennaro and San Gaudioso catacombs are run by a social cooperative, La Paranza, which employs young people from the neighbourhood and offers a fascinating tour, showing how the ancient populations negotiated death and legacy. The highlight is the Ipogeo dei Cristallini, a Greco-Roman crypt, recently uncovered beneath a 17th-century apartment block, featuring a perfectly intact relief sculpture of Medusa. It’s a marvel.
Where to shop
La Sanità is a den of indulgence, but it is the bakeries that set it apart, each with its own speciality. You can find taralli (crunchy savoury biscuits made with fennel seed and black pepper to accompany a beer) at Panificio Coppola Antonio; a perfectly moist rum babà at Pasticceria Mignone; and for La Sanità’s most famous sweet export head to Pasticceria Poppella for fiocchi di neve (snowflakes), small, soft brioche filled with a secret recipe of cream and ricotta.
Don’t miss
La Sanità has long been home to craftsmen and artists, their workshops tucked into courtyards and up hidden stairways. Omega Guanti has been hand-stitching leather gloves since the Bourbon period for the likes of Dior. Michele Iodice, a celebrated Neapolitan sculptor, works and exhibits from his studio dug into the tufo stone that is in itself a masterpiece. Atelier Alifuoco, a shared studio space, is home to the next generation of the city’s artists.
Where to stay
Casa D’Anna ai Cristallini (doubles from €220) is more sumptuous private home than hotel, where tasteful art lines the walls and photography books are stacked on antique furniture. Down the road, artist Vincenzo Oste and his wife Inès Sellami incorporate art, design and artisan work at their guesthouse Atelier Inès (doubles from €265), inside their newly restored palazzo, set within a leafy courtyard.