‘We have lammerullepøllse – lamb rolled sausage – today,” says Daniel Hesseldal-Haines, chef at Det Lille Sommerhotel on the Danish island of Samsø. “It tastes better than the translation sounds. And,” he gestures towards a woman sitting by the window, “the lamb is from Camilla’s farm.”
Camilla gives us a friendly wave, and my eyes fix upon her sweater, featuring row upon row of colourful motifs. Think Fair Isle but less orderly: each stripe holds a different design. “Oh, I made this,” she says. “It’s hønsestrik – chicken knitting. You can use it to tell your story – so this one is about hiking,” she adds, pointing to each section: “These are my footprints, this is my tent, my coffee flask …”
Samsø, just 43 sq miles (112 sq km), lies off the coast of the Jutland peninsula, an hour’s ferry ride from Aarhus, and is something of a poster child for sustainability and the good life, being known as “Denmark’s vegetable garden” because of its fertile soil and beneficial climate. It’s been energy-positive since 2007, thanks to community buy-in to initiatives including windfarm ownership and biomass heating systems powered by agricultural waste. The aim is to be completely fossil fuel-free by 2030 – two decades ahead of Denmark’s goal of carbon-neutrality by 2050.
Centuries ago, Samsø was a site of strategic importance during the Viking age: the Kanhave canal, hand-hewn through its narrowest point to facilitate maritime passage, is testament to that. But for many Danes, Samsø is simply a summer holiday destination – not only because of its reliable sunshine, but also because of its beaches, Guinness World Records-certified world’s largest maze and protected northern hills. For almost 100 years, mainlanders’ families have owned summerhouses here and, during the warmer months, the population of about 3,500 inhabitants swells, with visitors numbering more than 300,000.
My visit is in early spring and Det Lille Sommerhotel, in the busy harbour village of Ballen, is my base. Run by Daniel and his wife Lea, who took it over from her mother five years ago, its cosy, seaside theme fits its location perfectly. Spring is a great time to visit – the island is just beginning to wake up. Small groups of walkers pace the lanes. Crops are being harvested, and honesty boxes full of leeks and onions are set up outside homes. Everywhere, hedges and trees are studded with tight green buds on the brink of unfurling.
I head out in the spring sunshine to meet Aage Madsen, the owner of Samsø Bær, on the north-east coast. He makes juices, jams, oils and liqueurs from the island’s natural bounty (the schnapps even comes from the plumules from the birch tree in his back garden). You can tour the factory’s premises with tastings included, as well as stocking up on products to take home, and like many businesses on the island, there’s an honesty system with mobile-pay in place when the shop is unattended.
Over a coffee in Aage’s kitchen, I recognise the work of Samsø potter Sigrid Hovmand on the shelf; the previous day I had spent time in her Nordby studio (open year round by appointment), learning about how she shapes her hand-thrown ceramics into irresistibly tactile, organic yet practical forms.
Even in the warmth of summer, temperatures rarely crack 22C, but springtime sunshine makes a perfectly respectable 15C seem quite balmy. It’s ideal weather for hiking and biking – two of the best ways to explore – and indeed, Samsø is set up for both, with myriad routes to tackle on foot, plus multiple cycling routes and rental stores. Peaceful country roads take me on a leisurely cycle from Ballen to Vesborg Fyr, a striking white lighthouse built in 1858 on the island’s south-western point. When I climb the coiled staircase to the top, the views in every direction are wonderful: breeze-ruffled fields, sparkling sea and the lazy cartwheeling of wind turbines. Only occasionally do I spot a vehicle purring through the landscape. Indeed, there’s not a single traffic light on the island – although there are a lot of electric charging points, most in Tranebjerg, Samsø’s “big city” – a relative term, but where the tourist office, hospital and supermarket are located.
It’s also the site of Sams Island Distillery. Established in 2017 by Mads Nielsen and a former business partner, the brand prides itself on sourcing its ingredients locally. Mads even grows his own beets to provide the “sugar” for his rum, creates small-batch liqueurs with seasonal berries and hunts Lasius fuliginosus – ants with a citrusy secretion in their abdomen – to give his gin a lemony kick. We venture into the woods and he shows me his gathering ground: here, inspired by the ants in Copenhagen’s former restaurant Noma’s botan ebi (jumbo shrimp dish), he spent months crawling around in search of them.
Before I leave, I hike out along the Besser Rev spit. At 3 miles (5km), it’s an overground reef, formed of glacial marine deposits and forming a narrow, stony path, tufted with scrubby, low-lying vegetation. Brushed on its western side by the shallow waters of Stavns fjord, and by the stronger currents of the Kattegat Sea on the east, passage is sometimes denied by tidal activity. Although I’ve timed my walk carefully, I’m prevented from reaching the reef’s final stretches by signs forbidding access from 1 April until 15 July: it’s nesting season and this area is a vital breeding ground for sea birds. My progress thwarted, I’m content to sit on the sand by the adgang forbudt sign with my face tilted towards the gentle sun, listening to the sounds of nature and contemplating Googling “properties for sale on Samsø”.
The trip was provided by VisitSamsø and VisitDenmark. Det Lille Sommerhotel has B&B doubles from 745DKK (£86) a night