I had my head turned by fried courgettes while watching Stanley Tucci eat spaghetti alla Nerano (on Searching for Italy). So much so, in fact, that I went so far as to book a table at Lo Scoglio da Tommaso in Nerano while I was in Italy last year, only to be thwarted by a broken-down car. Still in search of the pleasure, my husband, Hugh, made that pasta when we got back home, and we slapped our thighs in amazement that so much flavour and pleasure could be achieved by frying courgettes until bronzed. I’ve been using them in all sorts of ways ever since and this is hands down my favourite.

Fried courgette, black bean and goat’s cheese tacos

Put on a good album or podcast while you’re frying the courgettes, because, once you start, you need to keep your eye on them. Soft corn tortillas can be found in larger supermarkets and online; if you can’t find them, use small wheat ones instead.

Prep 10 min
Cook 40 min
Serves 2-3

Rapeseed oil
800g courgettes (3-4 medium ones), trimmed and cut into 5mm-thin coins
3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 400g tin black beans, drained and rinsed
1½ tbsp chipotle paste – I like Gran Luchito
1 tsp fine sea salt
Juice of 2-3 limes, to get 2½ tbsp
15g coriander leaves and thin stems, chopped
80g mild hard goat’s cheese, cut into small, paper-thin shards – I use Woldsway
Small corn tortillas, to serve

Pour enough oil into a wide frying pan to come a quarter-centimetre up the sides, then put it on a medium heat. Test that the oil is hot enough by putting the handle of a wooden spoon in the centre of the pan: if small bubbles form around the tip, it’s ready.

Divide the courgette coins into four roughly even piles and line a large plate with kitchen paper. Carefully drop the first pile of courgettes into the hot oil, then fry for seven to eight minutes, flipping them every now and then, until golden brown all over. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fried courgettes to the paper-lined plate and repeat with the remaining three piles of courgettes. Once all the courgettes are fried and drained, put them in a medium serving bowl.

Put two tablespoons of fresh oil in a small saucepan on a medium heat and, when it’s hot, add the garlic and fry for two minutes, until pale gold. Add the beans, cook for a couple of minutes until warmed through, then mix in the chipotle and salt. Take off the heat, add the lime juice and tip into the courgette bowl. Fold in the coriander and the goat’s cheese.

Heat the tortillas according to the packet instructions, then keep them warm by wrapping them up in a clean tea towel. Put the courgette bowl and tortillas in the middle of the table and tuck in.