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How to make Provençal fish stew – recipe | Felicity Cloake's Masterclass US voters support HIV/Aids relief – will Trump’s cuts backfire in the midterms? Iran’s leader and security council ‘still need to approve’ peace deal with US From Gilead to Ladyland: how the rebellious women of literature offer hope in dark times Bruce Springsteen is a model for how celebrities should resist Trump Could nature itself hold the solution to climate change? I was punched on the school bus. Being violently bullied changed me – and affected one of the biggest decisions of my life Human cages and overflowing toilets at $1m a day: the brutal legacy of Ron DeSantis’s ‘Alligator Alcatraz’ jail The hill I will die on: If Hollywood blockbusters must dabble in science, can’t they get the small stuff right? | Helen Pilcher What is included in the Iran ceasefire deal? This is how we do it: ‘I thought I’d never want to have sex again – then I gave myself a pep talk’ A college degree once ensured prosperity – but gen z is finding ‘just not much out there’ Ben Proud denies Enhanced Games will encourage young people to try doping Irish gangland figure fails in Dublin byelection bid for seat in parliament With oil markets nearing the danger zone, a US-Iran deal can’t come soon enough ‘People are like: you’re a crackpot’: how Sam Campbell became comedy’s oddball superstar Renting has its downsides, but I’ve decided to stop waiting and start living – plants, garden furniture and all ‘Bringing the boys back home’: how mountain bongos Maue, Fitz, Kudu and Bon64 made their way back to Kenya French Open 2026: Zverev, Raducanu and Fritz in action on day one at Roland Garros – live Middle East crisis live: Rubio sees initial progress on reopening Hormuz after Trump claims Iran deal ‘largely negotiated’ ‘Growing up, you couldn’t play Bon Jovi – that’s what our parents listened to’: Bebe Rexha’s honest playlist UK judge’s decision not to jail boys for rape like a ‘rock straight in my face’, says victim, 16 Premier League finale with survival on line for Spurs and West Ham – matchday live How an Essex valley became one of the UK’s most exciting new wine regions I avoid AI tools because thinking is supposed to be hard. It’s what makes us human | Wendy Liu Arsenal’s party embodies the metropolitan swagger and angst of a divided city | Jonathan Liew ‘AI washing’: firms are scrambling to rebrand themselves as tech-focused Pioneering study aims to find out how repeated blows to head in women’s rugby affects brain Hunger increasingly used as weapon of war as ‘food-related violence’ surges, analysis shows Tour groups, temporary routes and toilets: the reshaping of Rome – photo essay Shark attack: man dies on Great Barrier Reef in far north Queensland I’m worried my colleague is lying about having cancer ‘We’re expanding the cinematic toolbox’: AI fault lines on show at Cannes ‘My partner was cheating. I wouldn’t have told anybody else’: people who found the right friend at the right time ‘There is profound disappointment in him’: mood in Russia turns against Putin Former prosecutor calls for EU statute blocking US sanctions on ICC members My dad was far from perfect – but I live by the advice he gave me on his deathbed Ukraine war briefing: Zelenskyy sounds warning after Russia strikes Kyiv with Oreshnik missile Suspected gunman dies after volley of gunshots heard near White House California governor declares state of emergency over looming chemical disaster Usyk rescues gruelling victory against Verhoeven with last-gasp stoppage Cannes got it wrong this year by awarding Cristian Mungiu’s very moderate Fjord Palme d’Or George Russell steals F1 Canadian GP pole from Kimi Antonelli on feisty day Pep Guardiola will not rule out possibility of managing England Trump says peace deal with Iran largely reached with strait of Hormuz to open Cristian Mungiu wins second Palme d’Or at Cannes for child abuse drama Fjord Iran say Fifa has approved World Cup base camp switch from US to Mexico European football: Harry Kane hits hat-trick as Bayern Munich complete double Anthony Burke: ‘It won’t be uncommon in 20 years to have four houses sharing one back yard’ ‘My body is fat, not wrong’: how body neutrality – not positivity – helped me shed a lifetime of shame
魔主有亚马孙:巨技已侵华服之域——吾辈将见反噬乎?
Hannah Marri · 2026-05-24 · via The Guardian

T大都会时装学院春展之记者会,素来庄重,然今年似有“封建夫人训斥奴仆”之态,抑或“玛丽·安托瓦内特在凡尔赛宫末日”之景。于此,艺术馆美国展区之大理石雕塑华美,中有劳伦·桑切斯·贝索斯欣然在焉,安娜·温特乌尔亦在侧。 被誉为“喜乐之源”,复言其与夫君杰夫(Jeff)于此盛事中,诚心诚意,乐善好施。与此同时,外界对贝佐斯(Bezoses)之介入之抗议,已持续数日,声浪未歇。街谈巷议与高墙深院之肃穆,相去甚远,令人眩晕。

梅拉达 gala近来为反奢之议所瞩目,然此番尤甚,盖因副主席之荣誉者,百亿富豪杰夫·贝佐斯与劳伦·桑切斯·贝佐斯,以千万美元之资襄助。贝佐斯之前助此会,非独一二次也——亚马逊曾为其首倡之资于二〇一二年。然今年之会,适逢不均日甚,盖贝佐斯之富,骤增无已,而其...唐纳德·特朗普(Donald Trump)之安抚决策使其于纽约城左倾之时尚艺文群中,声望不复往昔。

为抗议庆典,群组“人人憎恶埃隆”将怨愤亚马逊工人的访谈投射于贝佐斯曼哈顿顶层公寓之侧,并在博物馆内散布三百容器之假尿,以彰其意。亚马孙送货员之报之劳作甚勤,以至于必于瓶中溺尿。其间颇有异议,亦自时尚圈内人士出:前美国《Vogue》主编加布里埃拉·凯拉法-约翰逊(Gabriella Karefa-Johnson)共办一反“无富豪时装舞会”,使亚马逊工人登台,且拒与心仪客户合作以示抵制。其言曰:“时尚素来擅于漂白。于此之际,它以锦缎裹最阴险之辈,于闪烁灯芒之暖光下,竟能令吾辈信其为文化。此非新事。然吾自有其限。”于其Substack平台撰文

A person puts up a poster that says ‘boycott the Bezos Met Gala’
有众于四月十五日于纽约城张贴告示,促众人抵制由贝佐斯资助之Met Gala。摄影:Angela Weiss/AFP/Getty Images

又一股之非议,源自极不可能之源泉:《恶魔也穿普拉达2》。 乃一电影,其标志性剪辑师米兰达·普里斯特利,实受温图尔之自。于庆典数日前上映,其诡谲之情节,中心乃科技巨子本杰明·巴恩斯欲购耗竭之《Runway》杂志,以赠女友艾米丽。虽巴恩斯乃虚构之人物,然其具贝佐斯之特质,如离婚后之整容(电影中由Sculptra、Ozempic及睾酮注射所驱),且故事线暗合贝佐斯欲购《Vogue》予其妻之未实之谣。巴恩斯献一寒彻之独白论人工智能,预见杂志将无人参与而出版之世界。“未来如庞贝之熔岩,骤然涌至吾前,”他耸肩而言,而普里斯特利——首部电影之反派——英勇抗衡。她以普里斯特利之尖刻讥诮艾米丽欲以伴侣之财强入《Runway》之努力:“汝非先知,乃商贩。”

编剧阿琳·布鲁什·麦肯纳言,情节与世间流言之相似乃偶然——然于年度爆米花巨制中,以贪欲之硅谷寡头为时尚阶级之暴君,亦时流之映现也。文化之反噬甚烈,令人疑时尚与科技巨擘之关系将生裂痕。

梅赛德斯-奔驰时尚之夜於服飾之文化中,獨具其用,乃一年一度的紅毯盛會,唯此之故,設計師得以盡抒其狂野創意之志,是故其禮服之風險遠勝奧斯卡,時而竟成滑稽之戲。此會亦資助大都会博物館服飾研究所,此乃寰宇間歷史服飾之最宏博藏館,其展覽,近者曰《服飾藝術》,桑切斯·貝佐斯(及其財力)尤為顯赫。今年之會,籌得四千二百萬美元。門票高達十萬美元,較二零二二年之三萬五千美元,價格騰騰,恰逢賓客日趨科技化,其中有谷歌創辦人布林、馬克·祖克伯格及OpenAI之員工。凡謂貝佐斯、布林、祖克伯格此輩,因美國政府削減藝術資助而與川普結交,故而赴此會以重視歷史服飾之保存者,稍顯荒謬。

A man and a woman in black-tie dress pose for a picture
杰夫·贝索斯与劳伦·桑切斯·贝索斯出席2026年大都会时尚晚宴。摄影:凯文·梅祖尔/MG26/Getty Images为大都会博物馆/Vogue

显见乎,科技巨擘所欲于时尚者,乃文化之尊荣也。贝佐斯之辈,视此会为时尚赞誉之续,而美利坚《Vogue》杂志实助其成。是年,杂志盛赞桑切斯·贝佐斯,复于二五年以数字婚典之封面再彰其誉。半载之内,夫妇列坐巴黎时装周首排,且捐巨款设奖助学金,专于可持续之织物。温图尔者,二五年卸美利坚《Vogue》主编之职,就康德·纳斯特出版社更重任,犹掌大都会慈善晚宴之权。其素以力引文化商贾入时尚之林,如金·卡戴珊是也,纵众议其未当得此殊荣。时尚界每从温图尔之见。诚然,众名设计师多与桑切斯·贝佐斯合作,如“形象构筑者”罗奇,及为《大都会慈善晚宴》饰其服之希帕雷利,皆遵其意,尚纤秾之态(然观其于Instagram,二者似未将所为之作列于方格)。

宴尘既定,吾所询时尚中人,皆言于贝佐斯之赞助,深以为憾,谓其乃康德纳斯特(Condé Nast)之方向,未足称道。彼近始闭其最进步之铺,名曰Teen Vogue。彼辈亦失望,盖众多素以政见闻之名人,竟赴此宴,纵有群情激愤。红毯之下,有安妮·海瑟薇(Anne Hathaway)、巴德·奔尼(Bad Bunny)、瑞希·哈莉(Rihanna)、玛格特·罗比(Margot Robbie)、碧昂丝(Beyoncé)、妮可·基德曼(Nicole Kidman)及维纳斯·威廉姆斯(Venus Williams)等。塔拉吉·P·亨森(Taraji P Henson)与马克·鲁法洛(Mark Ruffalo)者,仅少数发布反亚马孙之影片;梅丽尔·斯特里普(Meryl Streep)与赞达亚(Zendaya)之抵制消息,未得证实。

然则,吾与之言者,彼辈亦自谓不能直言。时尚界一创意人士告吾,谓此会“可怖”且“俗劣”。曰:“若由吾意,则Мет Галла将终。”然其不愿诟病共事红毯之挚友——设计师与造型师也。又一崭露头角之设计师,其作见于春展之Costume Institute,告吾,初未闻贝佐斯氏之参与,直至其着手此展久矣。于此事,其心甚为矛盾,忧己为象征,盖知此世之贝佐斯氏,不恤困顿者之言也。终其意,乃决不能拒此曝光。“未得变改之力,欲与之抗,实难。”

A man in a black suit embellished with blue crystals
布林·谢尔盖,谷歌联合创始人,将出席二零二六年百乐门慈善晚宴。图:泰勒·希尔(Taylor Hill)/盖蒂图片社(Getty Images)

时下风尚之景,黯然无光,彼言如是。科技巨擘之所以趋时,盖因诸多奢侈品品牌——此等常为展览如大都会艺术馆之赞助者——力争去岁,巴宝莉宣布裁减1700职位而开云集团(Kering),拥有古驰(Gucci)、圣罗兰(Saint Laurent)及巴伦西亚加(Balenciaga)者,则关闭了133家店铺。“目睹此情,实为艰难:数年于此行业勤勉工作者,本应受护,且已倾注诸多创意,今反遭解雇,失其职事,”设计师言。“且时下,唯有如贝佐斯(Bezos)之人,方为斯事提供资助。”

纵有群议,艾米·奥德尔,时尚记者,亦为文之作者也。后排简报 谓科技巨富之流,其踪难去。彼不采贝佐斯购得《Vogue》之谣,然其欲入时尚之业,缘由非止于此。亚马逊久欲与奢华时尚为邻,尝受倨傲之拒(LVMH之首席财务官让-雅克·居尼翁尝言于二〇一六年:“亚马逊之业,与LVMH格格不入”)。

且其华彩自是。贝佐斯氏或慕时尚,盖“乐在其中”故也,奥德尔如是疑之。曰:“彼正逢中年之惑,新衣以易之。其妻欲摄于镜头,耀于众目。”她推论道,于寡头之注意力经济中,“可名之科技者”渐成卡戴珊之流。“彼等引人注目。吾信时尚将继续拥之。所问者,其能否如卡戴珊般渐归常态耳。”

时尚界之魁首,欲此事成,缘由尤多。其一,桑切斯·贝佐斯,依奥德尔所言,乃“要客”,即“奢侈买家中之2%,其销售额占40%——此乃奢侈品牌之根本,非仅慕名之客”。康德纳斯特则视贝佐斯为盟友,无论其以《Met Gala》式之捐赠,抑或以近期协议,许亚马逊自康德之出版物中取内容,皆然。人工智能所造之播客.

盖因庆典繁复炽烈,抑或温图尔氏年届七秩将归隐,衣冠之院似在谋其后计。其主事者,安德鲁·博尔顿也。告纽约时报 及至二二八年或二三〇年,该所当积“类遗赠”之财,足敷所需,不复仰赖岁举之助。波尔顿曰:“《大都会晚宴》殊为壮丽,然时或压倒众事。”复言其部门之倚重此会,实若履薄冰。“倘有全球巨变,众皆曰‘吾不能赴宴’,奈何?”彼云,岁举之会,日盛日显,终有难以为继之时。

A woman in a gown smiles for photographers during a red carpet event
安妮·海瑟薇赴2026年Met Gala之宴. 图:TheStewartofNY/Getty Images

然则,奥德尔引康德娜斯特公司CEO罗杰·林奇于庆典后播客访谈之语,言此岁之纷争实为“善……此会之诡谲,似日增!”奥德尔曰,或“彼等恃网海之记短,或竟不恤,盖不与常人言也。”

若果真上位者全然不闻下民之呼号,则可易想此盛会——及其所代表之奢华业——将愈发旋入寡头之境,而科技巨擘尽为主演矣。

彼时,创意之辈,其思其志,素为时尚业之推力,或非欲助之,反欲噬之。