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2023 西安行
2023-02-03 · via jdhao's digital space

如果你要问我心中第一美食之都,我会说是西安。西安我此前已经去过两次了,但仍意犹未尽。

今年其实去了两次西安,一次是从深圳回老家,在西安转车,在西安住了一晚,第二天就走了。刚到西安的晚上,就点了心心念念的西安胡辣汤,这味道太赞了。个人认为,西安胡辣汤比河南胡辣汤更好吃,西安胡辣汤加了牛肉丸,豆角,包菜,土豆,红萝卜等等,料更足。

第二天想去买个肉夹馍,发现大部分店都关了,去了回民街,人还挺多,可能全西安的游客都集中到了回民街。在回民街老金家又吃了胡辣汤,还点了蛋菜夹馍,胡辣汤不错,蛋菜夹馍不好吃,鸡蛋就是个蛋黄,菜是咸菜加花生等等,很干。回民街上的黄桂柿饼也不错,有多种味道。回民街相对于我 2016 年来的时候更加商业化,网红小吃不少,根本不是地方特色。回民街还有一个令人诟病的地方是李鬼太多,什么老金家,老米家,老刘家,都有好几个,作为游客根本无法分辨到底哪个才是正宗的羊肉泡馍。

第二次去西安是回家呆了几天,过了正月初七去的,本来以为人应该不多了,没想到西安的人还是那么多。

去了洒金桥美食街,人非常多,摩肩接踵,在这里也碰到了李鬼,有个牌匾上面也写着“洒金桥”(后面看新闻这个地方被游客投诉了,然后被拆掉了),里面美食不少,有牛肉饼,烧烤,饮料,也有一些非当地的网红小吃,价格都是偏贵的,有点名气的小店都要排队购买。

头一次去了碑林博物馆,碑林博物馆是收费的,不过门票也不贵,博物馆展馆有七个,还有一些石刻展馆,认真去看一天都不够。请个专业讲解也是必要的,否则自己看也只能看看热闹。

去了西安钟楼附近的柳巷面,之前来西安就想尝一下,不过当时时间太紧就没去,这次有时间就去了,店面较以前有装修,面的价格在西安算是挺贵的,大腕 20,小碗 17,面是很劲道很粗的面,哨子是牛肉做的,有胡椒的麻味,味道非常不错的,值得一试。

去了西安的永兴坊,里面有陕西各地的美食,不过感觉并不是很正宗,比较商业化,游客也不少,特别是有个摔碗酒排队体验的人不少。

西安的肉夹馍当然是必吃的,秦豫肉夹馍据说不错,但是店有点少,而且总店只营业到下午两点,没吃上。子午路张记的肉夹馍价格是偏贵的,来西安就不要太迷信这些肉夹馍牌子了,街边六块钱的肉夹馍也很不错。

有空和伦哥吃了个饭,工作挺卷,项目也很忙,经常需要加班,一般晚上 10 点多才下班。之前 17 年来西安,伦哥还在公司实习,当时碰面带了一份熏肉大饼,味道太好了,多少年都没忘记,记忆中的美味。晚上还去大唐不夜城随便逛了一下,简直是人山人海,和之前 16/17 年来的时候,完全不是一个景象,街灯、树上的灯都设计的都不错,有美感,就是人太多了。

在西安只呆了两三天就走了,时间太短,还有很多想逛的地方没去,留待下次再去。