We present TreeIRL, a novel planner for autonomous driving that combines Monte Carlo tree search (MCTS) and inverse reinforcement learning (IRL) to achieve state-of-the-art performance in simulation and in real-world driving. The core idea is to use MCTS to find a promising set of safe candidate trajectories and a deep IRL scoring function to select the most human-like among them. We evaluate TreeIRL against both classical and state-of-the-art planners in large-scale simulations and on 500+ miles of real-world autonomous driving in the Las Vegas metropolitan area. Test scenarios include dense urban traffic, adaptive cruise control, cut-ins, and traffic lights. TreeIRL achieves the best overall performance, striking a balance between safety, progress, comfort, and human-likeness. To our knowledge, our work is the first demonstration of MCTS-based planning on public roads and underscores the importance of evaluating planners across a diverse set of metrics and in real-world environments. TreeIRL is highly extensible and could be further improved with reinforcement learning and imitation learning, providing a framework for exploring different combinations of classical and learning-based approaches to solve the planning bottleneck in autonomous driving.