Hovering above the Douro River in northwestern Portugal, Porto is a blend of Old World tradition and modern energy, where centuries-old, azulejo-tiled facades give way to buzzing wine bars and an ever-evolving, deeply rooted culinary scene.

Whether you’re sipping a glass of tawny port in a centuries-old wine cellar in Vila Nova de Gaia, wandering the labyrinthine lanes of the Ribeira waterfront district or tracking down a perfect francesinha at a café, Porto opens up to those willing to work for it.

Two days is just enough time to scratch the surface. Use this guide as your starting point, but don’t be afraid to let the city lead the way.

Day One

Your home base for the next two nights is Forbes Travel Guide Recommended The Yeatman Hotel. Perched on a hill in Vila Nova de Gaia, this retreat sits across the Douro River from Porto’s historic center. The property embraces the city’s vineyard heritage: 109 individually decorated rooms that have private terraces and sweeping river views; a wine spa; a decanter-shaped outdoor infinity pool; and one of the most impressive cellars of Portuguese wine you’ll find anywhere.

Every floor has its own design theme, with rooms elegantly decorated by local and international wineries — think framed vineyard maps, oak barrel motifs and Portuguese tile accents. Drop your bags, take a few minutes to admire the terrace view and then get moving.

The best way to get acquainted with a city of narrow, winding streets and steep inclines is on a motorcycle. Luckily, you don’t need your own — Porto Sidecar Tours offers guided rides from the back (or sidecar) of a vintage bike. Owner João Marques customizes every tour, and his knowledge of his hometown is encyclopedic. You’ll hit all the highlights, from the Porto Cathedral to the best coffee shops, in just a few hours.

After your tour, it’s time for the city’s most iconic dish: the francesinha. A Portuguese twist on a croque monsieur, the meaty sandwich is stacked with cured ham, linguiça (Portuguese sausage) and steak, blanketed in melted cheese and drowned in a spiced, beer-based tomato sauce. If you’re going to try one — and you should — there’s no better place than A Regaleira, widely credited as the home of the original. A Regaleira’s sauce is famously spicy, but it also has a mild version, usually served to first-timers.

If you need a proper pick-me-up at this point, C’alma Coffee Room provides a quiet, second-floor respite where you can sample single-origin beans and nibble on a pastel de nata, or egg custard tart.

Spend the afternoon discovering Porto’s historic churches, which showcase some of the country’s finest architecture. Clérigos Church, with its iconic 18th-century baroque tower, offers panoramic city views for anyone willing to climb roughly 225 spiral steps to the top. Further down, the Church of Saint Francis (Igreja de São Francisco) has arguably one of the most ornate interiors in Portugal — approximately 660 to 880 pounds of gold leaf cover the carved woodwork inside. Photos aren’t allowed, but you’re unlikely to forget the sight.

As the shadows grow longer, make your way down to the waterfront for a leisurely walk along the Ribeira, Porto’s riverside promenade. En route, keep an eye out for the oldest house in the city, a medieval remnant tucked among the colorful row houses cascading toward the water. As golden hour sets in, find a spot along the quay for a sundowner — a glass of white port with tonic over ice is a local favorite — and watch the light shift over the Dom Luís I Bridge.

For dinner, skip the tourist-facing spots along the water and head inland to O Antunes, a family-owned restaurant that has been around for decades. Reservations are a must here.

The menu is rooted in traditional Portuguese cooking — bacalhau (dried salted cod) prepared a dozen different ways, slow-braised meats and hearty soups — and the atmosphere is warm and unpretentious. Order the vegetable soup, pork knuckle for two with potatoes and the “French toast” (more of a cinnamon-sugar-dusted fritter) for dessert.

Day Two

Start the morning with a brisk stroll from The Yeatman across the river to Zenith. The bright and airy café has an extensive brunch menu and excellent coffee. Forgo the staples in favor of more creative concoctions, like the savory bacon-and-egg pancakes or the eggs Zenith (avocado toast on activated charcoal-cocoa bread, topped with breaded poached eggs).

Sufficiently fueled, next explore Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto), one of the city’s oldest surviving landmarks, originally built in the 12th century and expanded over the following centuries. The Gothic-style cloisters are particularly beautiful. From there, make your way to the Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas) on Rua de Santa Catarina, whose exterior is covered in striking blue-and-white azulejo tiles depicting scenes from the lives of saints. It’s one of the most-photographed spots in Porto.

For a midday break, head to the recently restored Mercado do Bolhão, Porto’s beloved 19th-century market. Pick up some freshly sliced presunto (ham), local cheese, just-shucked oysters, crusty bread and a bottle of vinho verde from the market vendors, then find a spot to sit and graze.

After lunch, enjoy a stroll back across the river. Conveniently right on The Yeatman’s doorstep, World of Wine (WOW) cultural district is a sprawling complex built from the old port wine warehouses of Vila Nova de Gaia, home to seven museums, 12 restaurants, bars, cafés and a wine school.

Follow a wine tasting with a visit to the Chocolate Experience by 20|20, an interactive museum dedicated to the history and science of chocolate that is both educational and thoroughly entertaining. The tasting portions don’t hurt, either.

If the afternoon calls for a caffeine reset, 7g Coffee Roaster, one of Porto’s most respected specialty coffee shops, is the place to go. Aficionados should opt for the guided coffee tasting, while more casual sippers can enjoy a frothy espresso and a slice of housemade signature Basque cheesecake.

Cap the afternoon at Jardim do Morro, a hilltop garden in Gaia that delivers some of the city’s best vistas of Porto and the Douro. Arrive just before sunset to enjoy a view of the city glowing across the water and the bridge illuminated by the fading light.

End your two days back where you started. At Yeatman Gastronomic Restaurant, chef Ricardo Costa’s tasting menus move through the best of Portugal’s larder (cured fish, aged cheeses and slow-cooked meats), each course matched to something exceptional from the cellar below. Book well in advance and dress accordingly. The views from the table are filling as well.

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