The Harbor course at Wild Dunes Resort

Scott Kramer

As a West Coaster, I don’t get to the Southeast much. But since hearing about the recent renovations at the 49-year-old Wild Dunes Resort near Charleston, curiosity got the best of me. So I ventured down to South Carolina last week to experience this popular golf destination situated along the Atlantic Ocean. After stopping for some renowned barbecue on the way in from the airport, my friend and I checked into the quaint Boardwalk Inn on property, and soon found ourselves on the first tee of the newly modified Harbor course.

Over the past five years, $150+ million has poured into the property, capped most recently by a $9.5 million restoration of the two Tom Fazio-designed courses. While both courses – the other is called Links – were upgraded for infrastructure and coastal challenges — the most dramatic transformation was on the Harbor, where every green was rebuilt from the ground up. Essentially the resort doubled the size of the greens. The tee boxes were laser-leveled and enlarged, too. Add in a completely updated irrigation system with expanded coverage — including patches that previously struggled during dry spells — and the Harbor now offers pristine conditions throughout the year. And starting at hole 9, there’s a three-hole stretch running parallel to the Intracoastal Waterway. Chronic king-tide flooding once plagued these holes, so 15,000 cubic yards of material was added to help raise the elevation by almost five feet. Cart paths were relocated, fairways widened, and strategic bunkering added. The result is more playable holes with expansive water views.

The course is simply serene and gorgeous. It didn’t take long to get my attention. Along the left side of the first hole, there were several alligators lingering in and by the water. Yeah, you see warning signs for them everywhere around the resort, but you don’t really think you’re going to ever see them face to face. And when that happens, it’s a free drop across the other side of the hole to me. The course is relatively flat, and there’s a great mixture of holes. This is one of Fazio’s earliest endeavors. But in his style, many of the holes are forgiving and player friendly. Mind you, the first few holes are fairly narrow, but then it seems to open up. I even reached a par-4 on the back nine from the tee box. The greens were simply fantastic, despite being brand new. Perhaps best of all, we were able to play 18 in just over two hours – always feeling like we were the only ones out there.

The Links – located roughly about a mile away – features a surprising amount of elevation change. The course showcases the raw beauty of the Lowcountry coastline. Its finishing stretch builds in drama as you move closer to the ocean, culminating in the final three holes playing directly alongside the Atlantic. Years ago, coastal erosion forced the par-5 18th to be reimagined as a par-3, a necessary concession to nature that ultimately created what I understand to be one of the most memorable closing holes in the area. You play through preserved, natural dunes and salt marshes on the back nine. Wind is a constant factor, often shifting directions from one day to the next. Of the two courses, I feel this is more of how I perceive Fazio’s style. There are few penal areas, and I like that you can see everything in front of you – there are no blind spots. Plus, the fairways are wide and playable. The openness and gorgeous views on those closing holes was my lasting takeaway.

We played both courses twice in our three days on property. And they were such different experiences with a similar feel that I kept wanting to play more. While on property, we ate at several restaurants. My favorite was Coastal Provisions, located inside the Boardwalk Inn. I had an outstanding She Crab soup followed by an organic half-chicken and lemon meringue dessert. Everything was perfect. We also had thin-crust pizzas one night at Coastal Crust that were delicious. Also had the chance to rent a bike and ride it around the island, stopping several times to snap photos of the amazing beach views. I found the hotel, which by the way is flanked by the new 153-room Sweetgrass Inn, to have one of the most comfortable beds I’ve experienced in years. And when you’re playing that much golf in a few days, getting solid sleep is key. The Boardwalk Inn, which is run by Hyatt, also had super friendly and helpful service. Overall, this resort has all the ingredients for a great golf getaway.