Wedding season is in full swing; even as a single gal who’s admittedly somewhat averse to the pomp and circumstance of wedding culture, it’s impossible for me to open my phone without being fed videos about finding the perfect wedding dress or how to set the most memorable tablescape. Being a bride or even a bridesmaid in my personal opinion, seems somewhat exhausting–at least logistically; less is often said about the expectations of being a groom or a groomsman.

As a menswear aficionado who got my start working as a suit store shop girl in college, what I’ve learned is that what a groom wears on his wedding day is often a deceptively simple endeavor; everything from the fabric of a suit to the shoe he chooses can have a noticeable impact on how a groom looks both in person and in photos.

Opting for a bespoke or made to measure suit for the big day might seem like an arduous endeavor but it’s actually the opposite; sure it might take a little more time in appointments, but as a result you’ll have a suit that is–no pun intended–tailor made not only for your wedding but for many more occasions to come.

A Perfect Match

“Every tailor or tailoring-focused brand has a house style; their take on proportions, balance, and silhouette,” Victor Besnard, founder of Besnard tells me. “Historically, this is how people chose their tailor. On a street like Savile Row, with one tailor after another, what drew someone in was the house style. Finding a brand or tailor whose aesthetic you like is probably half the work, so spend some time researching before making an appointment.”

The Besnard house style, for example is inspired by Frederick Scholte, a Dutch tailor who worked on Savile Row and trained Per Anderson who would go on to found the legendary Anderson & Sheppard. Scholte’s tailoring is still seen today in both Neopolitan and Florentine tailoring schools and Besnard tells me that he is, in many ways, “the inventor of what we now call soft tailoring. “He was the first to move away from the rigid, heavily canvassed tradition of British military tailoring towards something with minimal padding,” he says.

“Inspired by this school of thought, our silhouette has a slightly extended shoulder,” he says. “Rather than padding, we let the canvas run through towards the shoulder to give a bit of structure.” The effect is a slight fullness in the chest that accentuates the shoulders; coupled with a generous lapel and a lower sitting gorge, what results is a suit that is “composed, and less fashion driven,” he says. It’s a house style that works perfectly for a wedding; with classic proportions that flatter, not only will it look elegant at the altar, it will look perfectly styled for many years to come.

Just as a bride might visit a few ateliers before choosing her wedding dress, it can be helpful, even essential to consider your tailoring options; peruse social media, schedule a few appointments, and give yourself the time you need to make a decision. Like a wedding dress, a bespoke suit is often a financial investment; especially if it’s your first suit, or if it will be something you wear often going forward, you’re picking something not just for your wedding day but for years to come.

“At the first appointment, I'd recommend coming in with some reference. Collect a few pictures of suits you're drawn to, even if you can't fully explain why,” says Besnard. “More often than not there's a pattern in what people gravitate toward: a certain color, a degree of structure, a pocket style. You will need to make quite a few decisions and having done this research makes the whole process much easier.”

Nate Pozin of New York-based Haitch tells me that they’re seeing young men come in with their own inspiration, invested in the process, more and more. “Guys really care, they’re really into it,” he says. “They’ve gotten inspired by other weddings or Instagram or Pinterest and they’ll come in with an idea of what they want and it’s always fun to meet them in the middle somewhere.”

For grooms embarking on their first bespoke journey, it’s also important to remember that this is not only a luxury product but a luxury experience. “People think it’s more fittings, or it takes more time, but you’re putting more control into your tailor’s hands, and the hands of the expert,” says Pozin. “You’re creating a higher possibility that the suit is going to be perfect to the millimeter.”

Mastering the Basics

So you’ve chosen a tailor and you’re getting ready for your first fitting; what should you know? Whether you’re opting for a full bespoke suit or a made-to-measure (MTM) he particulars of a perfect suit can feel wonky; how wide should a lapel be? What kind of pant break do you want? What even is a break? The good news is, the most valuable information you’ll need, you already have: how often do you plan to wear this suit, and where? And will it be the first and only suit in your closet, or are you adding to a collection?

“We wear suits far less than we used to; many now wear them mostly for special occasions. If you only own one or two, they need to work across many different situations and seasons,” says Besnard. “It therefore makes sense to invest in something you can continue to wear well after your wedding day.”

For your first suit, he suggests starting with a solid navy–it’s the most versatile suit you can own; it’s easy to pair with black or brown shoes, any variety of white, blue, or stripe shirts, and almost any tie. “The jacket can even be worn as a separate with odd trousers such as gray flannels, though suit fabrics are generally finer than those used for sport coats and will realy slightly more formal,” he say. “For the cut, keep it understated,” he says. “Single-breasted, notch lapel, flap or jetted pockets.”

Harry Tillman, who co-founded Haitch with Pozin after cutting his teeth on Savile Row says they’re also see men select their wedding suits with an eye toward future use. “It’s something that’s been pretty important for guys,” he says. “We just fit a guy who wanted the silhouette and styling details of a tuxedo without being a tux because he wanted to wear it after as separates. It’s been a nice option for guys to zone in on [details like] fabric and then make it slightly more casual while retaining that elegant styling.”

While a bespoke suit allows you to tailor every detail to your needs, MTM involves selected from pre-set options for fabric, fit, and design details; both allow for personalization and often it will come down to what makes sense for a groom’s budget. It’s not unusual for clients will come in and automatically assume the best option is a tuxedo, says Tillman. “The first thing we do is ask them: are you wearing this all the time? Are you thinking long term? Sometimes it just takes that split second for them to realize that’s not necessarily what they want.”

Pozin points out that while clients often come in looking for linens for a summer wedding, a blend with silk or wool might wear better throughout the day. “There’s a big misconception when you say wool; they think of a wool sweater,” he says. “But you can get incredibly lightweight wools that don’t crease.”If you want to pick a fabric that will make sure you look your best on your wedding day and beyond, Besnard recommends an all season weight worsted wool, noting that typically between 300 and 340 grams per linear meter is a perfect sweet spot; to add some visual interest that won’t overpower the bride, a low contrast pattern like a soft glen check or texture will add visual interest and character.

All that being said, let’s say your wedding suit won’t be your staple suit but instead an addition to your already booming collection; in this case, it’s a perfect opportunity to have some fun and Besnard recommends a cotton or linen suit in brown, tan, or cream, which would be particularly appropriate for a spring or summer wedding. Pozin also points out that an earth tone suit is a great option especially as it will fit right it at any future summer weddings.

It’s In The Details

Once you have your basics squared away, your wedding day is a great occasion to realize the full potential of the power of design details in shirting, shoes, and accessories.

“You can do quite a lot with how you put the suit together,” Besnard tells me. “A crisp white shirt with double cuffs immediately lifts the formality of the whole look. For a tie, a printed silk with a very subtle micro pattern works beautifully and makes the outfit feel a bit more festive. If you prefer a solid colour, I'd steer away from flat silk twills, they can be a little one-dimensional. Something like a grenadine Garza Grossa tie gives you the same versatility but with much more depth because of the texture. And a white linen pocket square also elevates an otherwise simple ensemble.” He notes even a waistcoat can add an elegant and unique touch, explaining that traditionally, men wore a morning coat with a waistcoat on their wedding.

Another opportunity for creative expression are at events other than the ceremony. “We do a lot of welcome party or night before outfits and sometimes it’s a classic tuxedo, sometimes it gets a little crazier–but it’s all about making sure the client will look back on their pictures and be happy with what they chose,” says Pozin. Tillman explains too, that, even if you’re opting for a simple navy or gray suit, design details like a wide notch lapel or a square shoulder with a rope will keep a suit timeless without looking staid.

Finally, consider finishing touches that will also be enjoyed for years to come; scour consignment sites like TheRealReal for rare or unique luxury ties or swap out a tie all together for the afterparty in place of a long scarf like this one with a subtle heart detail from Mulberry. For more relaxed styling that calls for a belt, a simple leather option from Frank Clegg or Coach will complement any outfit; if you’re taking the plunge and going with suspenders, Albert Thurston, available here in the United States through Side Mashburn, was a favorite of the late Donald Sutherland whose impeccable taste still resonates. And if you’re looking to invest in a pair of shoes worthy of a bespoke suit, look no further than John Lobb or Crockett & Jones; for a classic opera pump to pair with your tuxedo, Bode has you covered.