“La Serenissima” is less a city than a work of art, suspended between water and light, largely unchanged for centuries, thanks in part to its pedestrian-only streets and beautiful historic palazzos and squares. From the masterpieces housed inside the Gallerie dell’Accademia to Titian’s huge alter painting and Donatello’s sculpture in Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, to changing exhibitions in the late American collector Peggy Guggenheim’s former home, Venice is an art city like no other.

And this week, with the opening of the 61st edition of the world’s greatest contemporary art exhibition, the Venice Biennale (running until 22 November 2026), there’s no better time to head to Venice for a culture-filled trip. Even if you only have a day or two, you can still pack a lot of art in. Here are some suggestions of what to see, where to stay to avoid the crowds and what to eat and drink. The exhibitions all run for the duration of the biennale (until 22 November).

Offsite Country Pavilions, Venice Biennale

The advantage of visiting country pavilions that aren’t in the Arsenale and the Giardini, the main two biennale venues, is that a ticket is not required. And they’re often in unusual buildings, adding to the pleasure of your art excursion. With the clock ticking, it makes sense to choose pavilions that are relatively close together and uncomplicated to find. Start at the Estonian Pavilion with “The House of Leaking Sky,” a wonderful solo show by Merike Estna who is adding daily, to a series of 22 paintings, over the coming months. In addition to the ongoing live painting on large wall canvases, the former Church of Santa Maria Assunta has Estna’s painted portraits of historic women artists (including one of Lavinia Fontana, the first female artist of nudes) on ceramic floor tiles and a colorful ceramic bench along one side that visitors are invited to sit on. As she works, Estna wears garments created in collaboration with fashion designer Lilli Jahilo, developed specifically for the project (and some for sale) and inspired by historical dress, forming an integral part of the exhibition.

From Estonia, it’s a short walk to the first ever Venice biennale pavilion from Somalia, curated by Mohamed Mire and Fabio Scrivant, at Palazzo Caboto, at the foot of Via Garibaldi. Taking over the villa’s three floors, artist Ayan Farah and poets Asmaa Jama and Warsan Shire celebrate Somalia as a “Nation of Poets” with a multi-sensory (scent, sound, vision) experience. At the entrance, the scent of Somali frankincense draws the visitor in. This is followed by sound, as words by Warsan Shire evoke themes of resilience and belonging. The visitor will then see Ayan Farah’s textile works, where pigment and light trace memories of land. The experience is brought together by Asmaa Jama’s poetic film and installation.

Finally, head up to the end of Via Garibaldi and across the bridge on your left you’ll find the mystical, engaging work by artist, poet, composer and filmmaker Ásta Fanney Sigurðardóttir at the Icelandic Pavilion. “Pocket Universe” features an intriguing mix of sound, performance, moving image, sculpture and installation. There’s a sweet blue and white wooden boat outside, a coin, a chair, footage of a Yeti-like creature in remote locations visited by the artist and a whispering sound track. It’s an optimistic show, set among soothing blue walls and carpeting. All elements contribute to the idea that even in moments of instability, a change in perspective can reveal new possibilities.

Gallery/Museum Exhibitions

Outside of the pavilions, among the highly recommended exhibitions is a solo show “The-Exchange-Value-of-Language-Has-Fallen-to-Zero” at Casa dei Tre Oci, on Guidecca, by American conceptual artist Joseph Kosuth, featuring fascinating neon and text pieces. The centerpiece of the show is on the main floor, a new large-scale commission A Chain of Resemblance (2026), based on a text by Michel Foucault. Upstairs are earlier works from the 1960s, including One and Three Mirrors (1965) and a re-issue of Kosuth’s poster originally designed for the 1976 Venice Biennale, free to take away.

Stay

A hotel away from the crowds can be a relief after an intense day of art. A great choice is the Hilton Molino Stucky, an imposing 19th-century red brick building on the island of Guidecca, formerly one of the most important industrial flour mills in Europe. The hotel has done a wonderful job in preserving original structural elements such as exposed beams and ironwork, while introducing modern interiors. The 379 rooms and suites feature these historic details like the original wooden beams and classic Venetian touches like chandeliers, striped textiles and antique-style furnishings. Many rooms have wonderful canal views. The top Presidential suite is the highest and largest suite in town with private access to the hotel's rooftop. Speaking of which, don’t miss the Skyline bar on the rooftop for some of the best views across Venice, Venetian snacks and delicious, unusual cocktails. And for more views, beside the bar is the rooftop pool, open in warmer months. Outside of the hotel, there are plenty of other options for eating and drinking with small cafes, restaurants and bars lining the canal.

It’s around a 15 minute boat ride across the canals to the main action of St Mark’s square. The hotel provides a shuttle service running every 30 minutes plus there’s a vaporetto stop a short stroll away. Also, the airport vaporetto stops at the hotel dock. Nightly rates at Hilton Molino Stucky Venice begin at €240 per night based on double occupancy with breakfast included. Molino Suites start from €590 per night.

Eat and Drink

An Aperol spritz is the essential beverage on any visit to Venice. Find the bright orange cocktail throughout the city at most bars or restaurants including via Garibaldi, the wide street in the heart of the art biennale. This area is also a less touristy option for lunch than the often less than brilliant dining establishments around St Mark’s square. You’ll find locals as well as the biennale art crowd on the outdoor terraces. Most of the restaurants on via Garibaldi serve simple seafood dishes like spaghetti alle vongole (clams) or decent grilled or fried fish.

For a special dinner away from the crowds of the main island, the fine dining restaurant at Aromi on Guidecca is a great option. The cuisine is Italian with Asian influences based on the chef’s 17 years experience in kitchens in China. There’s a lovely canal-side summer terrace or indoors provides an intimate, uncrowded space. Chef Ivan Fargnoli offers a choice of four or seven course tasting menus that change seasonally. Highlights from the current menus include squid tagliolini with ginger dashi and Kaluga caviar, sea urchin spaghetti with yuzo kosho bisque and Hamachi amberjack and cuttlefish gnocchi with beurre blanc and tuna powder. A la carte highlights include Glacier 51 with sweet garlic and salted lemon.

Before dinner, enjoy one of the best sunset views in Venice and have a creative cocktail at the Skyline Rooftop Bar on the eighth floor of the Hilton Molino Stucky. Try “Blushing Dawn,” a delicious vodka-based concoction topped with creamy passion-fruit foam.