Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Monie Begley, Richard Nalley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.

Jacques Brasserie

205-206 East 85th St., at Third Ave. (Tel.: 212-327-2272)

Having just celebrated its 30th anniversary, this bistro is where foodies gather for the “classics.” Start with the onion soup that has just enough Gruyère melted on top, the escargots in bubbly, garlicky butter or the oysters on the half shell served with a Mignonette sauce. For main dishes, try the boeuf bourguignon with its flavorful and rich broth, the steak frites offered with either béarnaise or au poivre sauce or the overflowing bowl of moules frites, among other delicious choices. Each night the chef offers one special. Leave room for refreshing sorbet, a slice of the apple tarte or the crème brûlée.

The Commerce Inn

50 Commerce St., near Barrow St. (Tel.: 929-302-6044)

Situated on the loveliest block in the West Village, you expect to be transported. The Shaker-farmhouse look feels more rote than authentic and has echoes of Cracker Barrel wall decor. The “early American” cuisine is quite good—the marrow bone, the Brussels sprouts, the chicory salad—but very little stands out. The signature roast half-chicken is delicious, but the soupy rabbit pot pie special is bland, as are the deviled eggs. However, the date toffee pudding and the ginger cake will send you home with a smile.

Unglo Thai BBQ

35 West 64th St. (Tel.: 212-516-5194)

This sleek, fairly new restaurant bills itself as the city’s first Thai BBQ experience. Service is lovely, and the food is great. One problem is that the size of the cooking unit under the table doesn’t provide a lot of leg room. Steaks sizzle, the bok choy bubbles and the sauces zing. (The bar also makes a wicked Cosmopolitan.) To finish, skip the special pearl barley dessert and try the cheesecake or the coconut ice cream.

Chez Nous

The Marlton Hotel, 5 West 8th St. (Tel.: 212-321-0111)

A transformation of the space gives this place at the hotel a totally different feel from what was here before. The red velvet banquettes and the mirrored walls above them give the room a very nostalgic New York touch. The menu is classic bistro. The cabillaud—poached cod with ginger beurre blanc—is delectable. A vegetarian hit is the tagliatelle pistou—a tasty combination of basil, spinach and parmesan pistou with fried kale and broccoli. Desserts get high marks, especially the Pavlova and the profiteroles. The vibe is very cool and the service friendly.