Every week at the Crystal Hot Sauce factory, just north of New Orleans in Reserve, Louisiana, two train cars full of mashed cayenne peppers arrive on the tracks just outside the plant’s back door. The peppers are then pumped into four 20,000-gallon mixing tanks where the mash ferments under the sweltering Louisiana sun into a slurry. After water and salt are introduced, the slurry is ground into hot sauce that’s poured into glass at 125 bottles per minute.

“We are New Orleans in a bottle,” says Alvin Adam “Pepper” Baumer, the third-generation owner and CEO of Baumer Foods, maker of Crystal, from the floor of his plant where the scent of capsaicin (the chemical compound that makes peppers spicy) lingers in the air.

Wearing a red and white checkered blazer with a pin of his hot sauce fastened on his lapel, he continues, “My name's Pepper,” Baumer says. “I'm a walking billboard. This is what I was born to do.”

Baumer Foods was founded by his namesake grandfather in 1923, and 37-year-old Baumer has been at the helm of his family’s company since 2019. He has grown the 103-year-old maker of Crystal—as well as a Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, liquid smoke, wing sauce, teriyaki, steak sauce and more condiments—into a $50 million (annual sales) business, up 5% since last year. Today, Crystal is sold at thousands of retailers nationwide including at Kroger, Publix, Safeway-Albertsons, Walmart, Wegmans. And there’s ample room to grow outwards to the East and West coasts.

“Even though our bread and butter is Crystal Hot Sauce, we have to go out and push to the world that we're more than just a hot sauce company,” says Baumer. “We're a meat and sauce condiment company that's here to stay.”

Crystal’s loyal customer base in the South helps the business compete with brands that are multiples of its size. Across New Orleans’ finest restaurants and local po’boy joints, Crystal is a staple ingredient in many iconic creole recipes.

“We like to be the most well-balanced product that a consumer can grab off the shelf,” says Baumer. “We're not going to overpower your palette. We're not going to overpower the chef's creation on the plate. We’re going to enhance all the flavors.”

Just two hours west of Crystal’s home in New Orleans, on Avery Island, Louisiana, one of America’s best-selling hot sauces, Tabasco, is estimated to be roughly four times Crystal’s size. But Baumer doesn’t see Tabasco as a core competitor. For one thing, it’s made with Tabasco peppers, not cayenne. The key ingredient in Crystal is also what is used in Frank’s RedHot, America’s top-selling hot sauce, as well as neighboring brand Louisiana and also Texas Pete, which has wide distribution and even is sold branded in packets at Chik-Fil-A.

These days, hot sauce is a white-hot market. McCormick set off an acquisition frenzy back in 2017 when the spice conglomerate and owner of Old Bay acquired Frank’s for $4.2 billion. Then McCormick ignited the deal market further when in 2020 it forked over $800 million for Cholula, the third largest brand, in a deal valued at 10 times revenue.

More recently, in January, the fifth-largest hot sauce brand in America, Tapatio, sold to Dallas-based private equity firm Highlander Partners for an estimated $355 million. Tapatio was making an estimated 45% EBTIDA profit margin and the deal was at a multiple of roughly 20 times EBITDA profit. Then in May, Japanese barbecue sauce brand Bachan’s, known for its “Sweet & Spicy,” “Hot Honey” and “Hella Hot” flavors, sold for $400 million at a similarly estimated profit multiple.

This isn’t just another passing food fad. The profits in the hot sauce business are some of the best in the entire food industry—with gross margins over 70% and EBTIDA margins above 40% are the norm. Forbes estimates that Crystal has about $20 million of profit annually, and if it were to get acquired, it would be worth at least $450 million.

But Baumer, the sole owner of the business who has two young daughters and a third on the way, says he isn’t interested in selling: “It's my job to keep this thing moving forward so I can pass it onto the next generation. That's what gives me my drive. It was left for me, so I’ve got to leave it for them.”

In 1923, Baumer’s grandfather, Alvin, got a loan from his soon-to-be father-in-law to buy a snow-ball syrup making company on Tchoupitoulas Street in New Orleans. But instead of cashing in on one of the city’s the signature treats, inside the building he purchased he found a drawer where there was a recipe written out for “pure Louisiana crystal hot sauce.”

“He had the guts to be like, ‘All right, that's not that saturated of a market,’” Baumer says, pointing out that Tabasco was the only other hot sauce in the area, having been founded in 1868 by Edmund Mcllhenny, a former banker left destitute from the Civil War.

Over the next two decades, Baumer Foods expanded to making jellies and preserves, as well as canning fruits and vegetables like peaches and yams. In the 1940s, the company became a key supplier of food rations to the U.S. Army, so much that Baumer’s grandfather liked to joke that the ocean must taste sweet because of all the jelly in transit to Europe that was eventually sunk by German U-boats.

In 1980, after Baumer’s father, Alvin Jr., took over, he decided to refocus back on the family’s signature hot sauce. “If you're not at war, the government's not going to be buying as much,” Baumer says, recalling how his dad pushed the business into more private label contracts making hot sauce and other sauces for growing retailers and wholesalers.

“We were the one-stop-shop where big retail could come and we could make you the soy sauce, teriyaki sauce, wing sauce, and hot sauce,” says Baumer.

Baumer got the name Pepper “while still in the womb. His maternal grandmother, Dottie Brennan—of the legendary New Orleans hospitality group, which includes more than a dozen restaurants, including Commander’s Palace—said there were “one too many Alvins around” so she decided to call him Pepper instead.

“It’s stuck,” Baumer laughs. “It's fitting for what we do here.”

An only child, like his father, he worked in the Crystal warehouse, sweeping floors and loading box containers—“in the New Orleans heat, always fun,” he jokes.

“When you grow up in New Orleans, you carry on a badge of honor,” Baumer continues. “There's no place anywhere in the world like it. You feel a camaraderie of the people, the openness, the outgoing-ness, the welcoming-ness, the hospitality, the food, the culture.”

Back then, the hot sauce factory was still within New Orleans’ city limits, located in the Mid-City neighborhood.

That changed after Hurricane Katrina in 2005, when the factory was flooded by storm surge and it rotted most of the equipment. The business had to contract out its secret family recipes to independent manufacturers to keep products flowing. Baumer was 16 at the time and rode out the storm at his boarding school in Connecticut, but, in the aftermath, he witnessed his father struggle to solidify the business. Texan grocer H-E-B dropped Baumer Foods as a supplier (but continued to sell Crystal on its shelves). Roughly 200 employees left Louisiana and never came back. The company had to cut its least profitable lines and stopped making mustards and preserves.

“The business went to its knees overnight,” he recalls.

“It was a significant personal capital investment to bring this back from the depths,” adds Baumer. “We were paying people to make our product and keep our shelf space, but we weren't seeing any return because it was coming in, going straight to a co-packer, coming in, going straight to a co-packer.”

By 2007, the new plant in nearby Reserve, Louisiana opened. But the two years of co-manufacturing had already given away two generations of know-how that started fueling competitors.

Baumer graduated from the University of Alabama just as the company regained its footing, and his father insisted that he spend some time outside the family business before he could come aboard. He tried to get a job at fellow New Orleans staple Zatarain’s, owned by McCormick, but instead decided to join his aunts, Ti Martin and Lally Brennan at Commander’s Palace, which launched the careers of several acclaimed chefs, including Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse. Commander’s became Baumer’s home for the next three years as he learned the art of hospitality from perhaps the most famous restaurant in New Orleans.

“My aunts have instilled the family values in me: You don't leave it how you found it. You make it better,” says Baumer. “Everything that we try and do is to be an ambassador for the city and ambassador for the region and say ‘Hey, we're here. We're not going anywhere.’”

He eventually rejoined his father at Baumer Foods in 2014 as a quality assurance specialist.

He took over fully in 2019 and had only a few months at the helm before the pandemic hit. At first, the boom of home-cooking boosted sales some 15%.

“Everybody was home cooking. Nobody was at work. Product was flying off the shelf,” recalls Baumer.

But then the challenges set in: ingredients and key supplies doubled their delivery time, orders from its glass vendors came in short, so in turn, Baumer Foods ended up shorting customers to keep up with the delivery times that customers required. The price of freight and key materials, including glass bottles, skyrocketed.

Between 2021 and 2024, the business had a $16 million revenue shortfall, and Baumer personally poured a few million dollars to make up the difference and keep the business running.

“From 2021 to 2024 were pretty dark days,” he says now. “The good news that kept me waking up in the morning was the fact that, even though the shorts were there, people still wanted the product.”

Eventually, the delivery and buying patterns leveled out, and increasing the amount of hot sauce and other sauces that Baumer Foods sells wholesale has been a good buffer for the business.

Baumer’s next big bet is going industrial_—positioning the business’ sauces as ingredients that can be used by other businesses and chains. He wants to see it grow significantly, while at the same time, also wants to see branded hot sauce sales increase to a bigger share of his business.

When his dad ran the business, half the business was branded and half was selling hot sauce and other foods as white label products. Under Baumer, the company has increased sales from retailers and wholesale businesses that buy Baumer’s branded sauces to a 70% to 30% split. He wants to see it grow to 80-20,

“It’s going to help us grow for the future without having to lose our identity,” says Baumer, who likes to enjoy Crystal on popcorn and parmesan. “We’re open for business and we’re ready to work. Whether you want to put Crystal Hot Sauce in the front of the house or put Crystal Hot Sauce in the back of the house.”

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